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No worries!

Plywood is stronger than solid wood- as long as you have good overlap of the backstrap I wouldn't worry about it.

Two thin layers of ebony might be easier to bend than one thicker one, and the glue line shouldn't show if you are careful.

Cheers
John

Probably missing something here but couldn't you rout off the back face of the headstock to even it out, glue on a matching fillet to get the thickness back where you wanted it to be and glue on the ebony over that. Anyhow John's advice is good, the lamination will be at least as strong as the original wood and if anything the scarf will be more secure as a result.

Cheers

Kim

I wouldn't worry about strength either, given the combo of scarf, headplate and backstrap, but you might check the minimum thickness spec of your tuners. If you find you're a little shy, you've always got the option to add one or more contrasting veneers under the ebony.

Finished my search for a DW670... called dozens of places and nobody has one.
Dear Dewalt... WHY MUST YOU GO AND DISCONTINUE SOMETHING THAT WORKS JUST FINE!!!

well, i bound my latest with black fiber binding a while ago,
had to re-do the back,
didn't like the look,
finally shot a couple of coats of finish,
and now it REALLY looks ugly!!
it's a weiss style, and is going to be a bear to re-bind (in wood)
because it tucks under the fretboard at da nut.

Hey Alan;
What glue did you use for the fingerboard? It'd be a lot easier to take the board off first!
Unfortunately, I've been too busy with my summer yacht maintenance work to make any interesting new guitar building blunders. Except for that lacquer blush problem, which was pretty easy to fix.

hey daniel.
i think i used titebond 1.

i'm going to be very careful when i do this.
by hand with an irving sloan cutter.

it's all good.
hardest part is starting to do it.
i dunno,
i should have done it before i put the fretboard on, because i didn't like the look then,
then i said "what the heck, i don't care",
only problem with that is, now i do!!!!