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I'm about ready to start no. 2 and since I'm sitting on about 300 b.ft. of air dried Cherry I thought I'd use some of that before I go and screw up some rosewood, or walnut or 'insert tone wood here'. I've read ancedotes that some luthiers like Cherry, so I'm not worried about using it for back and sides, but how about binding, and fretboards? Any problems there? Also the neck block and tail block, any problems there?

Thank you,

Joe

Cherry is great for necks, blocks, linings and even back braces. IMHO it is too soft for fretboards and bindings.

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Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/

I made my last Mandola from local cherry " Pear Blossom " post . The Neck / The Back / The Sides / And Bracing are ALL cherry . I really liked it its VERY easy to work with .

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I know your question was about what else cherry can be used for besides back and sides.

But I just thought I'd add here that I'd always thought of cherry as a second-class tonewood until Wayne Henderson told me that he doesn't think it is. He has access to anything he wants, basically, and yet he says he'd be very happy using cherry. In almost 50 years he's only been asked to build two cherry guitars.

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"...you have to get over your strict adherence to your largely imagined notion of absolute perfection..."

I read that also, and it is what got me thinking about that pile of cherry in my back yard.

Thanks

Martin makes a couple cherry models. I am going to try a curly cherry 000 this building year. If you use your own wood I would try to pick some wood that is quartered if you have any. As said earlier the blocks and neck could be cherry as well. If you only had flatsawn stuff you could laminate the neck. Cherry is beautiful when it ages and turns darker. Best of luck- post picture. Bill The Greenman

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I've probably made 20 guitars with cherry back and sides. In NO way is it an inferior tonewood! I far prefer its sound to that of walnut or several other currently popular woods, and am currently building a Concert Jumbo for a local musician with a nice piece of slightly figured cherry.

I see no reason that it wouldn't be a fine material for blocks (with proper grain orientation, of course). A well-quartered, straight-grain piece should make an easily-worked, relatively stable neck though a bit heavy. It's plenty strong enough for a Martin-esque belly bridge. And I agree with Laurent that it's a bit soft for fingerboards. Braces ... well, the stiffness/weight ratio isn't all that good compared to spruce and if you think that matters (I do), you wouldn't choose it for braces.

Makes a great neck, that is stable and beautiful to boot. Good wood.

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Rick, that is a gorgeous guitar... If I wasn't broke I'd call you right now and order one!

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"...you have to get over your strict adherence to your largely imagined notion of absolute perfection..."

Gee, thanks Martin! And remember, you can order now with a small deposit and not have to pay the balance until the guitar's done!! (But seriously -- just build one yourself. If necessary, I can teach you how to.)

Cheers,
Rick

Watch for the tannin

viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=28311

I had two people approach me at the latest Montreal show asking after the little cherry/redwood steel string I had there two years ago. Both said it was the best guitar they'd ever played. Time to make some more cherry guitars.

The wood in that one was what I call 'enriched': it had shot in it. The lead had all dissolved by the time it was cut, but you could see the tracks of the pellets, and the black pitch marks. Wood like that tends to be denser and harder than usual, and often also has some really great figure.

I managed to score some nicely quartered stock with the same sort of 'rope' curl that Rick's guitar has, at the local hardwood place. I've worked with that sort of wood before, and it's not bad. As with all curly wood, you need to be careful when bending, but cherry does bend nicely.

I don't see cherry as 'too soft' for bindings. It's often a good bit harder than things like walnut and koa that I see being used commonly.

It's stable and stiff enough to make a good neck, and not that much denser than walnut or soft maple. I like to use lighter stuff for blocks, but there's no reason other than that to reject it.

Cherry is good for everything I have tried it for so far....

I haven't tried it for:
Bracing
Soundboard
Fretboard
Bridge

Otherwise, I like it a whole lot... Makes a fabulous instrument...

Thanks

John

Looks like consensus is that Cherry is a fine wood for building a guitar. Thanks for all your advice. When I start I'll post some pics.

I've made three guitars from cherry and one neck. I absolutely love it. Also, it DOES NOT require pore filling. Another big plus!

Ron

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Ron Wisdom

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I would love to see an even larger image. What a gorgeous curl figure!!!

Another supporter of cherry here. This was my first classical guitar built(15 years old now), cherry back, sides and neck:



I am currently building a cherry double top. I love the stuff and wish I had more of it.

Another cherry supporter here. I am currently building my 3rd cherry guitar, including the neck on all 3. It is not all that much heavier than mahogany,, if you get the less dense pieces. Nice to work with , easy to bend, and like Ron has already mentioned, does not require pore filling!

Here's a redwood/cherry OM I built a few years back.

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Nice Rick. IIRC, the guitar you built for Tim Brooks, (that he featured in his book Guitar: An American Life) was chrerry as well. Right?

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com