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PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 6:51 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Mar 12, 2009 5:36 am
Posts: 251
Location: SW Pa
First name: John
Last Name: Kitchen
State: SW Pa
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I have a ton of 100 year old fences around here. The farmers tell me its Locust. Can I use it as a neck wood? Or is that goofy and I should stick with the block of Mahogany thats in front of me?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 7:04 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Mar 12, 2009 5:36 am
Posts: 251
Location: SW Pa
First name: John
Last Name: Kitchen
State: SW Pa
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
While at it.... What radius do I do my top and back at for an 00? How do I "pick" a radius?
I have a 20' and a 28' radius dish(s)


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 8:37 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Mar 01, 2008 2:44 pm
Posts: 692
Hi John,

I use 28' for tops and 18' for the back. But, I think the 20' would be ok for the back since that's what you have on hand. As far as black locust for a neck, I think it could be ok if it is properly dried, quarter sawn, and straight grain. That said, I would use the mahogany since you will be waiting a while for the locust to dry and stabalize.

Chuck

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 8:41 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Mar 01, 2008 2:44 pm
Posts: 692
Oh yea, in the meantime, mill one of the locust posts down and set it aside in your shop. Monitor its stability, then decide if you want to use it for a neck.

Chuck

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 12:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2005 7:30 am
Posts: 1792
Location: United States
Black locust is a very good tonewood for back & sides, taptone is similar to EIR to my ears. However, it is visually as unexciting as it comes, and it is a tough, coarse wood that will be much harder to carve than Honduran mahogany. It will also be heavier, again, density is comparable to EIR.
I sometimes use it for bridgeplates.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 12:15 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2008 11:49 am
Posts: 897
Location: Northen Cal.
In general a very stable wood. One of the more stable hardwoods. As with any wood you need a nice straight piece. Even the most stable woods can be unruly if you have twisted grain, reaction wood, etc.

Link

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 3:05 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Mar 12, 2009 5:36 am
Posts: 251
Location: SW Pa
First name: John
Last Name: Kitchen
State: SW Pa
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Sounds right. I'll pluck a few to dry out. I was figuring they've been dead and quartered for 100 years, they were done moving lol. Looks like Mahogany for this one.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 3:36 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 5:07 am
Posts: 161
Location: Ulster Park, New York
First name: Bill
Last Name: Sterling
City: Ulster Park
State: New York
Zip/Postal Code: 12487
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
:mrgreen: I am a fan of Locust and if I were you I would try some out if you can get it. But I wouldn't use it for a neck. To hard and heavy. I have backs and sides fingerboards and bridge blacks and bridge plates. I am going to build a oo this fall when the humidity drops. It is a bit of a plain Jane wood but I am thinking of making a three piece back with a Bird's center stripe. Good luck it'd worth checking out.

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