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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 9:58 am 
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Cocobolo
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First name: John
Last Name: Charnock
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Hi

Most bending forms for the Fox type benders have steel bars separating the outside edges of the form, has anyone tried tube either aluminum or stainless steel ?

John


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 10:12 am 
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I use 1" x 6" pieces of 1/4" aluminum barstock slotted (on edge) into the forms. Easy to switch from one form set to another. (Of course, this is a bulbs only setup)

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Milton, ON


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 10:18 am 
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First name: Fred
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I made mine with 1/2" dowel, easy to cut and plenty strong enough. I use a heat blanket above the wood in the stack and heat is not a problem. I line everything up with the dowels in the holes and glue up with CA.

Fred

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 10:51 am 
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Koa
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Like Fred said... If you're using a heat blanket, 1/2" dowel works great. 1/2" hardened copper tubing works fine too, so aluminum would probably do the job as long as it is tempered alum alloy.
Stainless is expensive & not so easy to cut, but it'll work too.
1/4" X 1/2" (or 3/4") aluminum bar stock is another option.
I like using round stock, simply because it's easier & quicker to drill holes, than to cut slots.
If you use copper tubing, you'll need a 5/8" drill bit.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 10:57 am 
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First name: Evan
Last Name: McCartney-Melstad
Shaped wood blocks for me, with a piece of aluminum flashing nailed over the top.

Attachment:
Bending form completed.JPG


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 11:06 am 
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Hi

I am using blankets, the question was is hollow tube just as good as solid bar- maybe I should have worded it better.

Making a solid form out of wood seems a waste and quite heavy to handle, I was looking for a lighter option - hence the tube instead of bar. I suppose if dowel does the job hollow tube should be Ok - Aluminum tube is not that expensive, cheaper than top quality birch plywood

John


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 11:30 am 
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Point contact (or more accurately "line contact") of "bridge bars", whatever you use, is necessary to to get bulb heat to the slats but CAN result in "kinking". It's only happened once to me...set of wood bindings down the center "kinked" at the horn (actually dented the underside slat).
If I was using a blanket, I'd definitly use full forms.

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Dave
Milton, ON


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 1:12 pm 
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I used 1/8" thick alum flat stock purchased at the local big box store. Cheap, easy to cut and in my opinion easier to route or cut rectangular slots to accept the flat stock and get it flush with the mold than the round method. Just my 2c.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 2:19 pm 
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Yes, hollow tube is fine, I doubt very much that it matters what kind. I bought the machine from John Hall, the patterns use 1/2 inch tube, they work great and making new patterns is fast and simple.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 2:48 pm 
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Would you use slats and or tube with a heating blanket ?

J


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:19 pm 
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I use both bulb and blanket with mine and have only evey used hollow tube on my forms.
Cheers Robert, idunno


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:45 pm 
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I must admit the flat bar looks attractive, easier to run the pair of sides through the router table than struggle with a drill near the edge.

J


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