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Hi

I have my sides in the mold, its clear that one side is 3/32 bigger than the other. Question, which side do I leave the gap the top or the back. The photograph shows the sides aligned on the back which will leave a gap on table.

You need to set the sides up so they are even. I take it the sides are not from a serviced kit. Once things are trued up you should be fine. 15 foot radius on the back and 28 on the top

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

John-
As John Hall said, it doesn't make much difference at this point- you'll need to get busy with block plane and sanding to true things up a bit later. Just be sure to avoid an unintentional 'wedge' shape to the body, which will happen if you mindlessly put the rims on a sanding dish and 'go to it'! (Nobody will notice a small error there, though..)

Since the top is closer to 'flat' in my builds, I generally use that as the 'reference' side more often. Sometimes I don't put an end wedge/inlay at the tailblock- in those cases a tight joint takes priority.

Cheers
John

John: Looks to me from the photo that you have the grain lined up correct visually. This is a good thing...! I think there are two approaches.
1. Glue your tail and heel blocks in as shown[ assuming your OK at the heel].Then level the top of the sides before putting a rough radius on the top. This will make your sides slightly narrower, but that is not a big problem.
2. Glue your tail and heel blocks in as per # 1, making sure the tail block is at least the height of the widest side. Now when you glue your linings in you have to make up the 3/32 "by gluing the lining on the narrow side that much higher.Then you can radius the top side. When you glue your top on you will have a gap of 3/32" plus the thickness of the top and I would guess that to be about .200". This will be eliminated when you route for your linings.This way you can maintain your full depth if needed.
I never trim my sides to shape till after they are glued to the head and tail blocks. I just find it easier and don't run into this type of problem. I would suggest that approach #1 may be the best out for you to try. Good luck and have fun.
Tom


Good luck and have fun.

_________________
A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

Hi John, yes they are serviced I bought them from you

Hi Tom

I have decided to glue it as it is and compensate for the difference in the widths when I glue the kerf linings on - as long as the measurement between the top and bottom kerf is the same I should be OK. The binding process will cover it up.

I think that is what you suggested.

John

PS

Thanks Tom for pointing out the grain alignment - I was too busy looking at the gap to notice the grain. This dictates the way to proceed, very good lesson learned I think.

John

you still need to true them. Use the back as your reference and when you glue in the kerfing you can fix it. The back is set with the wedge and radius. Then you can adjust the heavy side from the top. When you are done you need to be sure the 1 1/2 degree angle is still in tact. The sides are roughed out to 15 on the back and 28 on the top with a 1 1/2 degree wedge.
Glue first then adjust

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it