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On my original fretboard I laid out the multiscale without the taper on the board, I botched that fretboard and when transferring the positions over on to this tapered board, I realized that the positions were quite different. With straight frets I guess this has no bearing because everything is perpendicular, but with the multiscale do you want the positions in relation to the taper or parallel to the center line? My guess would be taper because the strings follow that as well?

Thanks

I'm not 100% sure I understand your question but here's how I would look at it. If your layout is correct, just imagine the board is not tapered and lay out accordingly (which should be based on the center line). Most multiscales have one fret perpendicular to the center line and that should still be the case.

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Here's what I would do. First, draw lines along the board where the 1st and 6th strings will be. Then calculate the fret positions for the 1st string and mark them along the 1st string line. Do the same for the 6th string fret positions on the 6th string line. Then connect the dots to cut the fret slots.

Heres my problem, which line to mark the positions on and "connect the dots".

Multiscale fret positions should be laid out after tapering the board.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

Yeah, the tapered edge positions should be about right. You don't necessarily have to physically taper first, just mark where the edges will be, to use as reference when marking the fret positions.

The actual strings are inward a bit from the edges, so if you mark the approximate final string lines and then set the fret positions there, it would be even more exact to your defined low and high scale lengths. The difference is tiny though, so yeah, you might as well just use the tapered board edges as the reference lines.

Yeah, that would be the most accurate I suppose. Its half laid out already though and being the pain that it is, I will just finish it that way. Good thing I botched that first fretboard after all or I never would of realized you mark after the taper.

Thanks

Here is what i use now .. way easier than marking out by hand ....

http://www.fretfind.ekips.org/2d/index.php - it takes everything into consideration when laying out the FB .. string offset on the FB and nut and saddle spacing (this defines your taper), where is the stright fret (as a precentage, it doesnt have to be on a fret) and teh two scales. It then prints for you to scale (it was close enough for me that its better than doing ti by hand)

What I do is tell it that I am making a left hand fingerboard, then take the print out and glue it to the back of the fretboard, and slot face down on the TS. If you are using a saw and mitre box, then layout as a right hander.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

Wow what a time saver. The printer doesn't mess with the scale too much? Do you just line the two pages up as best you can?

Like I said .. I couldnt measure it any better myself .... my printer makes it that good ...

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

I just used the fretfinder site to lay out the multi scale on my first guitar, could not have been easier, but I still needed to get compensation info from other sources. It has lines to help line up the two pages and centerlines.
Rob

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I use a 3/16 saddle and comp this way ... set the high E or whatever its tuned to, to be dead on the scale length just into the saddle slot at that string location. Set the Lowest string to be about 4mm (plus the true scale length) at the centre of the slot at its string location ... you will have plenty of room to shape the saddle to get the comp dialed in from there.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

The question then becomes whether the program adjusted the scales according to the fretboard taper. The output of a computer is no better than the programming that went in. It does ask for nut and bridge spacing and strings set-in from the edges at the nut, so that looks good. Very sophisticated.

I wouldn't trust a printer to make an accurate paper template for fretting. I've been told by people who know more than me about it that even high end printers are not that accurate, stretch the paper, etc. So do you check all the measurements before using the printout? Then even if it were perfect, you still have to put your saw on the line and make a clean, vertical cut. What assures perfect accuracy in doing that?

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

Well .. agreed Howard .. but the 5 or 6 I have made this way are just fine .... you can always quickly measure it out for yourself after it prints.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

I just edited while you were posting, Tony.

_________________
Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.