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So i'm making the headblock for my 0 size build. I have some 4/4 spanish cedar. it's flat sawn. I was going to lam 3 pieces together and cut the block from that. Alternating the grain. Any concerns?

Also, my reference is the Cumpiano book which shows a simple headblock shape. I know some of you make the block with a fretboard extension piece. I was wondering if anyone could describe the rational behind that.

Cumpiano also shows the tenon fitting all the way to the back wall of the mortise. This seems like it would be impossible to achieve the desired relief without taking some material off the backside of the tenon. am i thinking about this wrong?

(add. info: i use the KD bolt and screw fasteners. and this is 12 fret neck layout with a slotted headstock.)

thanks

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brendan 3.0 new and improved, with better interpersonal subroutines

I think you are suggesting that due to neck angle the rear portion of the tenon may be sticking up? If so just plane it flush. As far as head blocks go laminating a 3 piece is just fine. I prefer to have the flat sawn pieces laminated such that the end grain is on the sides of the block and the side grain is on top with the flat sawn grain on the gluing face. It makes for easy planing to true up the rim for the top or back and it always seems to me that the flat sawn portion makes the best glue bond. I brush one thin coat of water base varnish on the end grain to seal it up too.

thanks. quite helpful

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brendan 3.0 new and improved, with better interpersonal subroutines

Bren;
Is this a nylon string guitar your making?
I think the extension of the block helps with two things.
Makes fretting the extension easier because there is more mass under the f.b.
I think it helps with sustain in those higher notes also.
Again because there is more mass there with the extension.

Mike

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Mike Collins

In addition to what Mike said, be sure to make the fret board extension block wider than your fret board extension. I'd leave 1/4" on each side of the fret board extension. These are areas that tend to crack when 2 different woods are expanding and contracting at different rates.

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Tracy
http://www.luthiersuppliers.com

Thanks!

A couple more newb questions:

1. Should there be a "foot" as well (see my crude drawing)

2. Should the headblock (fret board) extension be tapered to match the tapering width of the fretboard? (albeit 1/4" wider on each side?

This is a custom shape close to a pre-war martin 0-17 steel string. 12 fret neck. Am. walnut back and sides and a western red cedar top. spruce bracing, spanish cedar headblock and tail block, and kerfing.

ya'll'r the best

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brendan 3.0 new and improved, with better interpersonal subroutines

A lot of people use the top paddle without the foot. I started using a foot--and I believe I've seen pictures of Colin S. using a foot as well. I've also heard it's a good idea to taper the top paddle so that the edge of the paddle is not running along a single grain line of the top.

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Evan McCartney

so where would the truss rod access be in the headblock extension? Is there a channel routed in the extension?

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brendan 3.0 new and improved, with better interpersonal subroutines

Colin explains his system in detail here: http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=15954&hilit=

I try to do more or less the same and I like it very much so far.

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Evan McCartney

ahhh. got it.

thanks so much

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brendan 3.0 new and improved, with better interpersonal subroutines