Official Luthiers Forum!

I made my first side bend today with a fox like bender I made. Well my second try really. The first I did everything wrong. My springs were not strong enough so I had to run around the shop madly and set up a clamping fix. In that process I managed to scorch the wood. I think it was scorching I can't be sure. It could have been iron stain because I made the insane mistake of using water that I had used in my electric wet hone that must have been 10% iron! I have no idea how I could have done something that lame. I use the paper method where you wet the paper on each side of your wood. It seemed like the paper scorched or it had wax in it or something. Also I managed to put the waste too far forward so my side was short. I was kind of glad I ruined it and managed to get three screwups under my belt on the first try, never to be done again.
My second try went better. After cleaning my stainless slats and blanket well to remove any possible iron residue I used archival 100% rag paper I got from and artist supply store. I spritzed the paper with distilled water. Everything went well. My only problem is I believe I under cooked this one and the springback seems too great. I can clamp it into the form but it is a bit scary at the waist and is a full 1/16th not fitting at the edges of the waist.

Should I put it back in the bender and give it another go round or should I go with what I got, declare victory an bend the other side.

Thanks,

Mike

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I've had issues with springback in the past as well. The way I've solved it in the past is to clamp it in the form, and if your spreaders can make the sides fit the form without ridiculous pressure, leave it clamped for awhile as you work on other parts of the guitar - and you should be good. (Just don't apply so much pressure you crack the sides).

Mike,

Rag paper and distilled water is a bit much, but it won't hurt anthing other than a couple of bucks out of your wallet. Kraft paper and tap water work just fine. Iron stains can be easily removed with oxcylic acid which can be found at any good hardware store. It always helps us to help you if you state what material you are working with.
If you can push the wood to the form with reasoable hand pressure, then there is no reason to re-bend the side. Getting the bent side back in the bender can be a it of a challenge with the spring steel fighting back. If you decide to go that rout, tape the first piece of spring steel to the bender so it doesn't push up and crack your work piece. Once you have the bent side, blanket and remaining slat in the bender and supported with the cauls, you can release the tape so the first slat can support the wood for the second bending.
After you bend your sides, let them cool down for 10 to 15 minutes and then turn the blanket back on to reheat the wood in it's new shape. This will help minimize spring back.

Steve

I just bent a set of EIR sides on a fox style bender. One of my sides had an awful lot of springback, I'm not sure why, and I wondered should I finish it on the hot pipe or can I send it thru the bender a second time. I decided on the bender though it was a little difficult with lining eveything up right and the slats, but it came out a lot better the second time. I will have to touch-up the set with the hot pipe because for me, my homemade fox bender always requires it.
I have also flattened a poorly bent side with a clothes iron and rebent with good results.

René