Official Luthiers Forum!

Anyone have any? I am having a heck of a time and running out of wood!!!

What tool(s) are you using?
What woods are you joining?
Mc

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Mike Collins

There have been several posts in the past on jointing. Up to this point, I have been using my new world power jointer, but the traditionalists have been winning me over, albeit a little at a time. I just built the shooting board that Todd shows in the jigs section and used a Stanley No. 5 to join the last two that I did. I was surprised how quick I was able to get a good joint...quicker than walking down to the garage and using the power jointer.

I also used hot hide glue on those two tops...like I said, they are winning me over a little at a time. Since HHG worked so well for the top, I'll use it on the back and perhaps on the braces and bridge. However, I don't think that they are going to convince me that it smells good, as some have commented.

Alan

Buy a 24" fatmax extreme level with the machined edge and a 100 grit belt sander loop. Cut out a strip of the loop and glue to the machined edge with spray adhesive. Then run it back and forth on the plate edges on the shooting board just as if you were using a plane but make uniform strokes back and forth. I have found this the easiest way to get a gapless seam.

"Todd shows in the jigs section"

Where is the "jigs section"?

Here's what I do. It does take a bit of practice.

http://johnjayplatko.com/buildingasteelguitar5.aspx

Sorry...it's the "Fixture, Video, and Pictorial Tutorials" section.

Here it is:

viewtopic.php?f=10117&t=22540

I am using a stanley #3 plane and a shooting board. I have a power jointer but it is not giving results. I actually get a better seam doing it by hand. I ran a piece of oak through my drum sander to get a uniform edge and taped 80 grit paper to it. Still I can't seem to get a good seam.

I am trying to joint a set of IER, a set of black walnut and 2 sets of sitka spruce. Maybe the spray adhesive will do the trick.

thanks for the videos they are very helpful. Apparently I need a bigger plane and a wedge built into my shooting board.

I use "The Easy Jointer" from Luthier Suppliers. Works like a dream.

Hutch

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"After forty-nine years of violin building, I have decided that the search for a varnish is similar to the fox hunt. The fun is in the hunt."
Jack Batts Maker and Repairer of Fine Violins

I used to struggle until I got my plane blade scary sharp see Todds youtube vids, and if the run out is very bad I've done the sandpaper trick and the last pass with the plane.

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Formerly JJH

I learn more from my mistakes than my successes

Excellent Advice Todd, also If you have a chance, check out David Charlesworth's video on handplaning it definatly changed my approch to using the handplane.

There's certainly nothing wrong by doing it with a hand plane but a jointer that's properly set up will do
it just as well. If you're having problems, your infeed and outfeed tables are not parallel to each other. I suggest
you spend the time to get those right or having a jointer is useless.

And even if your fence is not set perfectly to 90 degrees, a jointer will still work: run one half with the A side toward the fence and the other half with the B side toward the fence.

I don't disagree that a perfectly hand planed joint is superior to a jointed one. I just don't believe the difference is relevant
as long as the jointer blades are sharp, the machine is set up properly, and the work is pushed through slowly.

I can't tell a difference in the look comparing these joints side by side with a magnifier, and the strength of the glue line is, in both cases, stronger than the wood itself.

Sanding a joint, on the other hand, is inferior in my experience.

How do you quantify this if the joint was taken theoretically up to 12,000 micro-mesh surely it'd be finer than anything a hand plane would achieve. Just playing devils advocate here.

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Formerly JJH

I learn more from my mistakes than my successes