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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 10:03 am 
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Walnut
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Joined: Mon Apr 26, 2010 3:52 pm
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First name: Chad
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City: Pittston
State: Maine
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Focus: Repair
Status: Semi-pro
So I ripped the bridge off my lefty Simon and Patrick because I'm giving it to my son who plays righty so I'm replacing the bridge. I bought a replacement bridge from Allparts. It seems to fit precisely over the footprint of the old bridge. I assume that S&P doesn't make their own bridges but sources them from elsewhere, maybe even the same supplier Allparts uses. If this is so, can I also assume that if I glue down the new bridge precisely where the old bridge was, intonation will be 1) spot on; 2) close enough so I can adjust the difference at the bridge saddle? Thanks!
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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 10:07 am 
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2) close enough (I would think)

But you should be able to evaluate that yourself by looking at the saddle slot position of the right handed bridge. If the middle of the slot is at the same place than the middle of the slot on the left handed one, you should be good.

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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 10:30 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I would not assume no. Just measure it to be sure. The mid point of the saddle needs to be about 3/32 longer then the scale length. If the saddle slot one the new bridge is not positioned exactly as it was on the old bridge, understanding that they are compensated at different angles, then it will not intonate.


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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 7:03 pm 
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First name: Darryl
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Are you planning to replace the nut? You will be placing the small E string in the large E string slot and vice-versa. Neat way to fix the guitar for your son. I have an S&P that sounds and plays nice.

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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 8:32 am 
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Walnut
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First name: Chad
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City: Pittston
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Focus: Repair
Status: Semi-pro
Being a lefty player, I'm pretty familiar with modding a guitar from right to left, so this is just the same. I already have a new nut and saddle, ready to go. But thanks for mentioning it, wanting to be sure I had my Ts crossed and my Is dotted - I appreciate it!

BTW, this IS the first time I've pulled a bridge off, and am feeling pretty good (and thankful!) about clean it came off.


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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 12:05 pm 
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Walnut
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First name: Chad
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Focus: Repair
Status: Semi-pro
jfmckenna wrote:
I would not assume no. Just measure it to be sure. The mid point of the saddle needs to be about 3/32 longer then the scale length. If the saddle slot one the new bridge is not positioned exactly as it was on the old bridge, understanding that they are compensated at different angles, then it will not intonate.
Thanks! Which would make the entire measurement what? In other words, I don't know off the top of my head what the dreadnaught scale length is. Thanks again!


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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 12:48 pm 
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Walnut
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Todd Stock wrote:
Or just full and recut the slot next time, avoiding the whole issue.
Didn't want to do that, this seemed easier for me.


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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 12:55 pm 
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Walnut
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First name: Chad
Last Name: Thorne
City: Pittston
State: Maine
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Country: US
Focus: Repair
Status: Semi-pro
Chad Thorne wrote:
jfmckenna wrote:
I would not assume no. Just measure it to be sure. The mid point of the saddle needs to be about 3/32 longer then the scale length. If the saddle slot one the new bridge is not positioned exactly as it was on the old bridge, understanding that they are compensated at different angles, then it will not intonate.
Thanks! Which would make the entire measurement what? In other words, I don't know off the top of my head what the dreadnaught scale length is. Thanks again!
O.K., disregard; checked S&P's website, scale length on my guitar is 24.84". The ".84" doesn't help me, I'm not good with decimals; but if I put the new bridge precisely where the old one was, midpoint of the saddle slot is 24 and 31/32". Am I close?


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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 8:50 pm 
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Walnut
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First name: Chad
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Todd Stock wrote:
24.84" + 3/32" = 24.93" to front edge of slot on center line of guitar; you are at 24.97" measured to the center of the slot, so in the ball park. Beginning to see why fill/reslot has it's attractions?
Not yet, but who knows? I may, before I'm through.


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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 8:50 pm 
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Walnut
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Joined: Mon Apr 26, 2010 3:52 pm
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First name: Chad
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City: Pittston
State: Maine
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Country: US
Focus: Repair
Status: Semi-pro
Oh, and thanks, Todd!


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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 11:11 pm 
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Koa
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Chad Thorne wrote:
Chad Thorne wrote:
jfmckenna wrote:
I would not assume no. Just measure it to be sure. The mid point of the saddle needs to be about 3/32 longer then the scale length. If the saddle slot one the new bridge is not positioned exactly as it was on the old bridge, understanding that they are compensated at different angles, then it will not intonate.
Thanks! Which would make the entire measurement what? In other words, I don't know off the top of my head what the dreadnaught scale length is. Thanks again!
O.K., disregard; checked S&P's website, scale length on my guitar is 24.84". The ".84" doesn't help me, I'm not good with decimals; but if I put the new bridge precisely where the old one was, midpoint of the saddle slot is 24 and 31/32". Am I close?


Real easy to convert decimals to fractions Chad. If you want 32nds, just multiply .84" by 32. If you want 64ths, multiply it by 64 and so on. To get back to decimals, divide the numerator by the denominator. It's just that easy. [:Y:]


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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 11:29 pm 
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Walnut
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Joined: Mon Apr 26, 2010 3:52 pm
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First name: Chad
Last Name: Thorne
City: Pittston
State: Maine
Zip/Postal Code: 04345
Country: US
Focus: Repair
Status: Semi-pro
Wow, even I can do that! Thanks, Darrel!


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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 8:45 am 
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First name: Kent
Last Name: Bailey
City: Florissant
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Country: usa
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So....what method did you use to pop off your bridge? Did you heat it up and get a pallet knife under it?....or what? I noticed the bridge on my OM build from 2 months ago has a rear corner lifting.Then...further checking shows a corner on another one of my previous SS's lifting also. I used the same luthier white glue on both of those....Looks like I need to pop both off...clean up and re glue. Since these are both branny new guitars...I didn't want to try the block and hammer (Whack) method of bridge removal. I'll use titebond next time.
Kent

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