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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 8:01 pm 
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Koa
Koa
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Joined: Thu Sep 24, 2009 9:50 am
Posts: 942
Location: Ellicott City, Md - USA
First name: John
Last Name: A
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
HI,

Robbie - this is a question for you - but I guess anyone can answer.

I tried the drill press method to cut out my headstock. It's great! Now I ran into one issue....and I think I know the answer but I wanted to ask. When I cut out my headstock, from the backside, once the drill bit hits the hardwood veneer, I got some tear out on my headstock veneer.... is there a way to avoid this ? Is it because my bit was not really that sharp ? what is the best way sharpen that bit - should it be sharp ? wouldn't it help to use a router bit in there ?

Thanks !!




PS - between your videos, and Chris Paulicks videos - and Cumpiano's book - I am building a classical ....

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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 8:13 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sun Oct 28, 2007 4:40 pm
Posts: 763
Location: United States
Are you using a beveled drill blank like Robbie does in his video. I sharpen it just like I do a chisel. Take your time when you first grind it. Keep it cool.

Mike

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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 8:29 pm 
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Koa
Koa
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Joined: Thu Sep 24, 2009 9:50 am
Posts: 942
Location: Ellicott City, Md - USA
First name: John
Last Name: A
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I think that was my issue - it cut through the cedar ok - and the maple and black veneer - but when it hit the 1/16" walnut it took out small chunks from the sides. My headstock isn't the same shape as my template anymore - but that is ok - I will adapt. But I do want to avoid in the future - my bit was not "sharp" if you tried to cut your finger on it or shave hair it would take a great deal of effort.

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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 10:42 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 5:23 am
Posts: 2356
Location: United States
Keep it sharp and it should work fine. Take small cuts with each pass.


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