Official Luthiers Forum!

I don't know how many here have heard of this but I just learned of it.

This may be the simplest method of achieving those dramatic shots I see in my head....but can't get from a camera.

Basic explanation of the concept
http://www.betterlight.com/extended_Focus.html

Download Helicon Focus (Lite, Pro, Pro X64) 5.1.2 (09.04.2010) to get a very good idea of how this software works. Very much worth doing if you haven't seen this before.
http://www.heliconsoft.com/heliconfocus_downloads.html

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I read Emerson on the can. A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds...true...but a consistent reading of Emerson has its uses nevertheless.

StuMusic

Way cool, Stuart! I wondered how they got such incredible depth of focus.

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

I've been trying to achieve just the opposite with my digital camera, trying to get limited depth of field in the image. Darn digitals have such extended depth of field that EVERYTHING is in focus even when I want to limit it. (except when I do macro)

Anyone know how to deal with that?

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Expectation is the source of all misery; comparison the thief of joy.
http://redrivercanoe.ca/

Use the single point focal parameter in the set-up, vs the multi-point focus.

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

even better, a SLR with a f/1.4 lens (f 2 is great too, Canon makes a dirt cheap one that is decent)

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Build log

If you want maximum depth of field you will need to stop down your lens. If shooting in low light you want to use a tripod and cable release to get greater depth of field. Your depth of field or better said depth of focus will be 1/3 forward from the point of actual focus and 2/3 behind the point of actual focus. On a human face that you want to carry as much focus as possible you usually focus on the eyes. The 1/3 in front covers the nose and the 2/3 behind the eyes handles the rest of the face. The chips on most of these digital cameras is so small that usually the problem is too great of depth of field. To shorten the depth of field you can set the asa as low a number as it will go and open the lens as wide as needed. If you are still to fast you can use a polarizing filter to lose a couple of stops. Most of the guitar shots I see in the group are done outside and could benefit from the use of a polarizing filter. Shots you see with great depth of field are usually done with 4 x 5 view cameras where you can control swings, tilts and shifts of the film plane. Nikon does make a 35mm lens that can shift, and tilt if you really need a deep depth of field for a shot.

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http://goatrockukulele.com

Yes. Shoot with the longest lens you can find with the largest aperture you can get. Basically set max zoom with aperture priority and move away until you get the shot framed how you like.

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http://www.birkonium.com CNC Products for Luthiers
http://banduramaker.blogspot.com

I'm using a Canon S3, which at the time of purchase was as close as I could get to a DSLR without actually going to a DSLR. I like to keep my camera kit very basic, more about the photography that the gear.

The S3 is a great camera, and without going to DSLR, the option of putting on a long lens won't work. I could play with the zoom at max but I don't always have that option. Even when I have tried maximum zoom, it still is not as effective as I would wish.

I already use a single point for focus but these digitals have so much depth of field by default that it can be difficult to work around. Setting the ISO in order to open up the lens has its drawbacks, too.

Oh well, digital has so many positives that I can live and struggle with this. I still am set up for film and I am looking forward to getting some of my old cameras in use again, especially my 4X5 Speed Graphic and my Canon rangefinder Leica clone!

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Expectation is the source of all misery; comparison the thief of joy.
http://redrivercanoe.ca/

Doug,

Your S3 has a zooms out to 400mm or something like that. What are you shooting that you'd need more?

The issue with a lot of modern consumer zoom lenses is that the maximum aperture (lowest number) isn't large enough to maintain the desired f-stop when at maximum zoom, the reason you see things like f2.8 - 3.5. At 3.5 at max zoom, there wouldn't be the shallow depth of field we're looking for. Can't beat a prime lens for that.

Those old cameras are fun. I have a Hasselblad that's about 40 years old, and some old Nikon gear. Sold the Wista 4 x 5 hears ago to buy the Hassy. Sort of like hand tools for photography!

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com