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Hi all

I saw this a while back and wondered if this is custom made or can you buy them somewhere.

I think it would be very handy

Neil

Grizzly has them in 2 sizes

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Thanks Brock

For those who use one of these roller sanders:
How tricky is it to keep the sides flat when using this tool? Doesn't it tend to 'round over' near the bindings?
Just wondering, as I find that a problem even when hand-sanding.
(But I hate hand-sanding sides!)

Thanks
John

Hey Brock

Went to the Grizzly site and can't seem to find them.

Do you know what they call them?

Chris Paulick has a video toot on how to make one
I think you can find it on Youtube

Jeff

Hand held pneumatic drum sanders.
[url][http://www.grizzly.com/products/7-1-2-x-2-1-4-Hand-Held-Pneumatic-Drum-Sanders/H2882/url]
http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-x-1-1-8-Hand-Held-Pneumatic-Drum-Sanders/H2881

I've got one. You can mess something up pretty quick with one. I use mine just enough to not sell it, but I do most of my sanding by hand.

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/

Here's the link to Chris's toot

viewtopic.php?f=10117&t=25191&p=340060#p340060

I've had both sizes for several years. Thought I'd like them for leveling sides but I don't. Sticking the body in the vise and using a wooden block with sticky sandpaper (Or an appropriately sized round caul for the waist) is still the best for me. The place I use them all the time is shaping heels. They are great for that.
Terry

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

There is a tremendous difference in sanders and operation and technique. check this out http://www.sand-rite.com/touchup.html

We use these a lot but you do pay a premium for the air operated motors. Sandpaper grit and speed control are very important in using these tools even the air pressure in the drum is important. Trying to use a drill want give you the kind of control you'll need nor the feel necessary to use this tool effectively.

Hope this helps

Kevin Waldron

I use them for the concave areas (waist and cutaway) on the sides but very carefully.
Have good luck with a VSR drill with a VERY light touch to prevent roundover on the edges.
Higher inflation pressure to create a somewhat convex surface across the drum's length is good also but don't overdue the PSI.
The small diameter version works like a dream for fairing in the neck heel to the shaft and even finish sanding the shaft.
Again, a LIGHT TOUCH is adequate. These little jewels will remove maple amazingly well even at low RPM.
The "hardness" of the drum is also controlled by RPM. Centrifugal force due to RPM will tend to make it harder.
Low RPM works great for sanding convex surfaces on the neck as it lets the pneumatic drum conform better.
Nelson

I have one. I was not quite the tool I thought it would be for the sides but it seems to work well for neck shaping. I bought the one the Chris makes. It works much better for sides. I don't know if he is still selling them, you can contact him and see

Richard

I've had a large and small one for twenty years. There is a learning curve when pumping the bladder and controlling the speed. An air drill works best with a speed control. Experience is the best teacher when determining how much pressure to apply to keep from rounding the bindings. I make slow deliberate continuous passes checking the surface with each pass. I always finish with a block to be sure things are level. It works best on neck shafts and the heel.

I bought mine from the same company that Gibson buys theirs. Unfortunately it was so long ago I don't have the name. Gibson called them "rolling pin sanders".

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"Try to be the person your dog thinks you are."

http://sites.google.com/site/bertsguitarshop/

I use these to sand the heel when carving necks. It is a great tool to do the final shaping

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John Ressler