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There was a thread a while back on neck jigs, so thought that I would pass this on. I just got a really slick neck jig from Jon Simpson that does both mortise and tenon and dovetail joints...and it's easy to adjust for the neck angle. Jon is a member here ( JSimpson ) so if you have any questions about how it works, you can get in touch with him. There was a video on his website demonstrating the jig, but it looks like it wasn't available when I checked a little earlier. Anyone interesteed might check later to see if it's back on line ( http://www.jsimpsonguitars.com/ )

Alan

Alan, I bought one of these several months ago but haven't used it yet. Looks to be well made and a good deal. I'll probably be closing up a box today so I plan to try mine out in the next few days. Have you used yours yet? Any hints?

_________________
Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I just got it, so I haven't used it yet. I have a couple of guitars ready for spraying the finish, so will be starting another before long and will use the new jig on it.

I had an earlier model jig that Jon sold (actually, two of them) that I have used several times and they worked well, but weren't as easily adjustable for the neck angle as the new one and they only did a mortise and tenon joint. One thing that I did learn the first time that I used these was that like any other routing operation, it's best not to take too heavy of a cut at once. A 3/4" pattern cutting bit at 3/4" depth is too much. I think that Jon uses a router template guide the same size as the cutting edge of the router bit, with the cutting edge slightly below the template guide. I can't recall for sure, but it may have been a 1/2" template guide and bit.

I thought that the video that was on Jon's site was pretty good. Hopefully, it will be available again before long. You might also contact Jon for some pointers.

I also have a yet unused Simpson jig, the video is also on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-uILpnd9kw&feature=player_embedded

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

Well, I have a real dumb question I'm sure, and I resisted posting until I figured it out but sadly I can't. Also, I would ask Jay Simpson directly but since I didn't buy the jig from him and I copied it greatly, I feel it would be bad form to ask him. So, if any one has used this jig I would appreciate some help.
First, Simpson's video and instructions say to use a flush cutting bit, is this the same as a straight bit with a bearing?
Now, regarding routing the neck end flat after setting the angle and before routing the tenon, How do you keep the router base from riding up on the protruding section of wood before the bit touches it and causing the bit to do essentiall nothing? I have the bit height set at flush with the base.
I'm using a trim router and 3/4" straight bit for this operation. I don't have a plunge router but I don't see where that would make a difference.

Thanks,
René

1. Yes, a router bit with a bearing on the shaft to ride against the jig's template.

2. If I understane the question, I think that the answer is don't set the neck so high in the jig that it protrudes from the top of jig where it will hit the router base. It can be slightly below the surface of the jig and the depth of the bit adjusted for the correct cut.

3. a laminate trimmer will work fine, but make shallow cuts with that 3/4" bit so that you're not trying to hog out too much at once.

I just watched the video again on YouTube (thanks Fred!) and I see that Jon does have the neck extending above the base of the jig. Although that isn't the way I've been doing it, it looks like it works well for him. It does have me wondering though..

Hey gang -

Thanks for the kudos, Alan!

As far as routing the edge flat after setting the angle...although I DO use the method I show in the video (bit flush with router base, riding up on the exposed heel and gradually trimming it off), you could certainly lower the neck in the jig's carriage so that it's NOT protruding from the jig's top area, and drop your router bit a little. I would do this if I used a router bit with a bearing on it, rather than the collar/straight bit approach.

I think there is a tad bit of confusion caused by the reference to a 'flush' cut at the 4:00 mark in the video. Jon says 'we'll remove that with a flush cutting router bit'. I normally think of a flush cut bit as one with a bearing and straight edges. In this case, in the video, when Jon mentions cutting flush, he means using a flat bottom bit (I'm not sure if those are also called flush cutting bits or not) to level the tenon area after the angle is set.

Anyway, I believe this is where the confusion is coming from. It had me confuzzled until I watched a couple of times.

_________________
Jim Hansen

I have one and it's still in the box. It's very nicely built. I couldn't have done a better job myself and the price is right.

Hey everybody,
Thanks for clearing that up. I tried dropping the bit and neck a little and it worked fine although at this stage I'm using a Lowes poplar practice neck.

René