Official Luthiers Forum!

Since this has been Swapapalooza week feel free to post pics of your score if you wish and/or tell us what you intend to do with your new acquisitions.

As for me I spent very little time in my shop this week but my golf game is coming along nicely....

So you know the drill - let's see what's happening in YOUR shops this week please?

Thanks!

I just had a couple of fun hours in the shop so I thought that I would post some pics.

I'm starting another Tiger Myrtle guitar and this one is going to be a black topped OM to complete the triad of the black topped L-OO and Dreadn*ught...

Here is some TM binding passing through the Play-Dough Fun Factory....



Here is why we use 80 grit for hardwoods..... I forgot to change the paper in my Performax thickness sander and it had 120 grit already installed..... Fortunately this happened early on when I had lots of thickness to still sand off....





Closer inspection of the shop-cut Klingspore 120 belt revealed that one side is indeed burned.....



I threw on a 80 grit belt and sanded the burned spot off.



This is my first time out with my Performax hooked to my new dust collector. I have to say that I am very pleased with the results in as much as my dust collection is now much stronger so much so that even with the door open on the Performax it was interesting to watch the dust being pulled from the drum's cooling fins and into the dust collector.... The specs that you see flying from the end of the drum are dust - pretty cool and this clean freak was amused....



So now my TM sides will get sanded with the ROS to remove any thickness sander lines/scratches and then it's into the bender.



Thanks for looking.

Mostly I'm having to put my lutherie activities on hold, or at least slow motion in the greater interest of actually making money.

I am, however, able to get back to my wife's viola da gamba project. I'm at the stage of roughing out the scroll of the neck and preparing the drawing for the back of the scroll carving.

Just needs a little tweeking to get the proportions just right, there are a couple of spots that feel a little squished.

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Expectation is the source of all misery; comparison the thief of joy.
http://redrivercanoe.ca/

Santa day today. Some hide glue, a couple short rulers, a glue brush, new caliper head, micromesh pads, but most important a Herdim reamer.
Its quite pricey but darn, the action is so smooth. Recommended.

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Build log

I strung upp my first born this week!
Been busy trying to get the action right and I think I might have to plane down the bridge or reset the neck angle to get as low as I want. But I am quite happy with the way it looks(with all its flaws) and sounds, I´m quite exciting to see how much she will open upp.

I just strung up number 6 the Bubinga OM Wedge, and have done enough setup that I can play it. The nut slots can go down some and the saddle needs about .030 or so removed to get it into my comfort zone around .080 at the 12th. I like to play a guitar for a few weeks then do the final the set up. I have to decide if I will do one of Mario's Tortoloid pick guards, or a clear one. I have of Mario's ready that was destined for the 12 fret before I decided on clear, I always seem to revert back to the no pick guard look.







Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

Fred, that looks quite beautiful. I was thinking about stocking up some Bubinga while prices are still very low (or quality high). Where did you get yours.

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Build log

I like these thread Hesh - as it keeps me on my toes to show quality work and some form of progress each week !!

thanks


Today I finished up a Chris Paulick (sp) jig - thanks Chris !! - it is to cut radial rosettes !





and I am gluing up some herring bone purfling -

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It's this new idea from recent decades that everyone gets a participation award. - MUX

I'm still chipping away at my archtop. Right now I'm building jigs for the neck. I also finished a couple of tailpieces.

Getting this 14 fret 0 size ready for finish, hope to spray it this coming week. I still have to pore fill and seal. And since it is white oak,, there are a lot of pores to fill!!

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Hi Alexandru

The Bubinga came from the Zootman from last years OLF online swap. I picked up two sets, that one had a cool sapwood center but I cut it off because of worm holes that I thought would spoil the look when repaired. My other set is real nice and I picked up another set from Shane in this years swap.

I played the guitar quite a bit today as did several of my friends and I love the sound, I think a little brighter than Rosewood.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

WOW - you guys are a pretty talented lot!

John thanks for the thanks - I feel the same way and these threads also help me not be the slacker that I often want to be....

Fred I agree with the others your guitar is looking absolutely killer my friend - very nicely done!!! Also wanna tell us again how you get your bridges looking so good?

Chuck your guitar looks fantastic too and I have some oak here that a great friend gave me and now I want to build with it!

Very nice work Jason - which tail piece is slated for this guitar?

Oskar your guitar also looks fantastic and for a first it's even better!!! You might want to avoid planing the bridge and instead rework the neck angle if that is indeed what needs to change. Planing bridges, unless they are too high to begin with, is not the best of practices.

Nice score Alexandru my friend. What's the deal on the Herdim reamer - what makes them so nice?

Beautiful work Douglas and I am going to be watching this one with great interest - it's looking very cool already!

Let's see some more of what's happening in YOUR shops please?

Thanks

Well I searched a bit around and it seems most ppl agree Herdim's are the best reamers out there even if they are pricey. For example my model, but coated with titanium nitride, is a whopping 125$ at LMI. In any case, I did a few test fittings and it cuts with little effort, no jerking, leaves a clean wall in both rosewood and cedrela and the hole is nicely round. I don't have experience with the cheaper varieties, maybe they work just as well too, but I preferred not to risk having enough money to blow

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Build log

Closed the box on my Oregon build

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http://www.booneguitars.com
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Stephen-Boone-guitar-builder/488208541257210

Thanks Todd. You sure are correct about the pores in red oak. I'm not so sure I'd build with it because of that, but if I would get that special piece.....?

Chuck

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Hey Hesh, the ebony one is going on this guitar. I made the maple one as a mock-up since I'd never made a Hill/English style tailpiece before. It turned out so nice though that I'll probably use it on guitar #2 perhaps.

I am retopping a guitar with a too-much-bearclaw Sitka.

Thanks Jason and yeah they both look very cool - nice work!

CW killer looking top!

Looking great Stephen!

Thanks Alexandru - so LMI carries these - very cool!

I'm binding number 4, and waiting for number 3 to be delivered back home from Joe White's place.

Chris.

Nice guitar Todd, can I ask if there is any special treatment you give to a burl rosette, like epoxy or anything?

As for me, starting a contest telecaster that I have 3 weeks to complete.
Should be doable though...

No ideea how this looks in real but nice photo! One of the rare occasions when I like a cedar top with (near) white sides! The rosette color definitely helps.

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Build log

Beautiful work everyone. Can't wait to see the carving on the Gamba Douglas.

Here is what I am working on. It is a white pine that I will have quartersawn into billets large enough for double bass size.

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Ken

Hey Todd, Double basses have always been made from ANY wood that was available that fits into the range of specific gravity that might work. Backs and sides of willow, poplar, walnut, pine all were used. Tops of any light wood that is stable. They are then graduated to make the plates work together, back and top. White pine works very well, a great american maker who's basses sell for big money now named Abraham Prescott and other early american makers used it as well. Straight grained wood is nice but wood on the slightly quirky side is sometimes better for an instrument of this scale. Within reason, of course.

Don't get me started

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Ken

Well...in the shop, not too much guitar building this weekend. I've been wet sanding out a 000 I reset the neck and resprayed a while back. It's my number 1, so I wanted to get it redone.

Otherwise, I've been building a hall table and a coffee table. Walnut tops and curly maple base. Trying curved legs...

Plus, now that the nice weather is upon us, my trusty helper and I are working on my other hobby...when will I learn?

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Jamie M

Thanks, Ken. You're not the only one who can't wait.

I used White Pine on my last guitar, a Torres FE17 exploration. I was mightily impressed with the pine! I had a white cedar top all prepared for my gamba and after my experience with the pine, am going to have to prepare a new top! I have some time to while I carve the scroll....lots of time!

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Expectation is the source of all misery; comparison the thief of joy.
http://redrivercanoe.ca/