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I'm finally getting around to working on plumbing in my new dust collector and I can't find the fitting/pass-though that I would like to use.

My dust collector will live on the other side of a shop wall directly opposite my bandsaw and thickness sander which are on the shop side of the same wall. As such I just want a fitting in which I can plug the DC intake hose in on one side of the wall and the hose leading to my bandsaw on the shop side of the wall. The DC has it's own circuit and the plan is to get a remote on/off for it.

I'm trying to keep this simple with short runs for efficiency.

Not having any luck here locating a product that is used to pass through the wall with ports on both sides.

Assistance please? TIA

Well, there are quick disconnects from various sources. You want one of each side of the wall? Put a piece of pipe through the wall and join it to the disconnects. Maybe I'm not seeing your problem--it looks like the solution is straightforward-- but I've recently learned more about dust collection ducting (metal) than I ever wanted to know. PM or email me if I can help.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

Thanks guys - sorry if I am not being clear in explaining what I am looking for here.

John Abercrombie gave me the idea of using something like a dryer vent (thanks John!) and I just got back from looking at them at the hardware store.

Looking at the pic below:



If I replaced the vent side and pitched the vent and took another plastic flange from another vent then I would have a tube to pass through a wall and a finished flange on each side. On the DC side I would connect the DC with as short a hose as possible and on the tool side do likewise to the bandsaw.

If anyone makes anything like this that would work well for a DC and if it's 5" even better since 4" is kind of restrictive since my DC supports 2 4" ports.

This is what I can't find or, conversely, if there is a better way to pass a DC pipe through a wall and have it look decent and preserve the insulating properties of the wall even better. So how do you guys pass your DC pipe through a wall when you want a finished look with receptacles on both sides that you can quick connect to and from?

Thanks

I saw a hole with a hand drywall saw if it is just drywall (don't get the $9 cheapie--for about $13 at the big box you can get a good one). If it is plywood/OSB/whatever, I saw it with a sawzall. Then when the pipe is in, seal and tidy up the wound with drywall tape (I like the self-adhesive mesh type) and mud it over. Then paint. I have no training in these things, but if you can build a guitar, you can cut and finish off a hole in the wall. Go for it! Also get good duct tape; there is a difference. I've been liking Nashua, but 3M is OK. The best is the butyl rubber adhesive with foil backing, but it's pricey and really overkill.

You can get 5" spiral pipe and quick disconnects for it from Grizzly or Penn State or a company called Air Handling Systems. No need to be modifying dryer vents. Also, the stove and fan exhaust stuff at the hardware store is not meant for the vacuum a good dust collector develops. If your collector is made to run two 4" ports, you should be using a 6" main, not 5". Step down to 4" as close to the machine as possible. Same with going to flex hose.

And of course, read Bill Pentz's site. It may be more than you need to know, but it is well worth the time.

_________________
Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

Hesh
Check out the ABS sewer pipe at your local hardware.
It comes in various sizes I think up to about 8". Cut the
length you need and put a coupler on the inside and outside
wall. From there you can pretty it up the way you want, and
the size you need, with various reducers and adapters. Visit a
plumbers shop and they may have exactly what you need in their scraps.
Allen

Better to use PVC Sewer & drain, according to Bill Penz. It's strong and relatively cheap. But you would need to use flex hose to connect the quick disconnects, which you can only get in metal. With metal pipe, the disconnects can fit right in and only need duct taping. The metal pipe comes in 5' lengths. Sounds like you will only be using one length of it (you need to saw it. A PITA with a hacksaw, and another good reason to have a sawzall. You can rent one, but they are great tools to have around. As in "wonder how I did without this". Best price at Amazon) . You would need to buy the plastic in a bigger length, and also some larger diameter flex for the connections, so it might not save anything.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

For what it's worth, I'm in the middle of getting some work done in the basement, that includes rerouting the combustion air vents for the furnace and water heater. The contractor tells me that here the code requires he box it in completely, even in the unfinished closet. So he's been scribing it in with 3/4" plywood, and putting 3/4" plywood between the vents and the floor above them. The intent is to slow the spread of fire, should there be one. When he's done, he has to seal it all up with spray foam.

What confuses me is that when the furnace was sitting in the middle of the empty basement, we could just dump the vents anywhere near the furnace. Now that it's going to be walled in, it need a fully insulated wall and real doors with weather stripping. It's fine to chill the whole basement, but if there's a cold closet, we sure wouldn't want to let the cold into the rest of the room.

In any case, if I were you, I'd cut a hole in the wall, put the pipe through, and brace it up with some plywood. Then spray foam to seal it.

When people put DC in a closet, do you need to vent it so the air can go somewhere?

Mike

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Mike Lindstrom

Yep and if you vent it outside guess where your heat is going to go.

_________________
Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

You misread me, or I was unclear. I was saying if you go plastic, Bill Penz says pvc over abs. I go metal myself. Bill also says that you can collapse ordinary ventilation duct.

_________________
Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

Not just where your inside air (hot or cold) is going, but also what are you pulling in from outside (like humidity). If the building is really airtight, then you are adding to the static pressure and losing flow. The big advantage of venting out is that you have no dust returning, and you don't even need the filters on a cyclone. On a day when the outside air is at an acceptable temperature and humidity, it's a good way to go; you can open a couple of windows. The rest of the time, you need a return.

A collector in a closet can heat the air up quite a bit, and that hot air will be up near the ceiling. Not a bad idea to draw the return air from high up to get that heat out of the closet. One of the videos on the Clear Vue site shows how to build a simple wooden duct in the closet so the hot air will return low down on the wall and diffuse better in your shop. Not really needed, and you can use a circulation fan instead (in the shop).

_________________
Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

I should have been a bit less flippant. In addition to what Howard said: if you have your DC in a separate closet you can put additional filtration in the return air path if you are venting back to the shop (which is probably what would make sense given the humidity and temp. control issues). Be sure to size the filter appropriately for the return CFM flow.

edit: A good point about ensuring adequate air flow around the motor; hot motors have shorter lives.

_________________
Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

A little late, but would a couple of these Flanged Sleeves with a section of pipe between them work for you?
http://store.oneida-air.com/hoods-2.aspx

René

Thanks for that Rene and I did not see those prior so this may help!

Actually I have not done a thing yet because I have yet to find a decent solution for what I want to do that also looks decent and does not leak or come loose from repeated disconnects and reconnects.

I plan on calling the Oneida people as recommended when I catch my breath - I am knee deep in neck resets this week but loving it.