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A wider slot with an appropriately bended fret glued in may be the answer too. Though it would help if you elaborate.

I've done a number of cherry fretboards with StewMac 0.023" wire. An 0.023" blade has worked well for me if cut cleanly. I've also tried an 0.020" blade, which was tight but they went in.

What type cherry?

American Black.

Maybe the saw is cutting wider than 0.023? Could a tooth be askew, or have a burr?

Cherry may not be the best wood from a Durability standpoint, but it shouldn't have any trouble with frets staying put if the Kerf is a little smaller than your fret tang notches.

Irv Sloane said you need to test a fretting saw to ensure that frets
hold in a given species of fingerboard wood, that softer woods need a
narrower kerf. It's no big deal for me to lap off some of the set, but a
pain to rewiden it if I go too narrow.

It could just be a tolerance stackup problem -- meaning you got fretwire that is near "Minimum" spec and a saw blade that is running near "Maximum" spec -- so the fret tang is a bit looser than you would like..... We aren't talking about much -- They both probably have a normal spec range of +/- 0.005" -- but that is enough to make a tight fit into a loose fit and vice versa.

If your kerf is a bit too wide or the tang is a bit too small -- you can always ding the fret tang in a bunch of places to make it a bit wider.... A blunt, heavy knife edge tool like a cold chisel or cleaver would do the trick....

Maybe a scraper burnisher?

All you need to do is upset the tang a bit, not chop it in half -- so a light touch is your friend.

Glue works too.

Thanks

John