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So I am no pearl cutting expert but have been trying my hand at some headstocks and fret marker sets.
I bought some 4/0 and 2/0 from lmii and broke them all. In that time I managed to get three headstocks
with my insignia and one fret board inlayed with markers I designed. Then I went to the local woodworking
store and picked up what says they are 4/0 and 5/0 blades. The 4/0s are way smaller than the ones I got from lmii. Im guessing they must have the wrong label on them. The cut Im getting is nice and clean but I broke 4 blades and haven't got thru the first piece yet.

I guess Im asking do I just have crappy blades? Im taking it real easy and being careful and they just snap.
What kind of blades might you suggest? Should I wax them or something? More or less tension? Can you use to much?

Wes

the secret is to be relaxed. i cut with the small blades also. Do you have a board to cut on ? also let me know your technique . I am planning a video for you tube about this. The secret is to keep square as you found out . I can use a blade for about a good hour till I dull out. I cut 2 layers of pearl at a time.
call me and we can chat my contact info is on the website blues creek guitars

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

I took an online inlay class that they offered on MIMF back in 2004, and that was the last time I had cut any pearl. Last night I tried my hand at it again and did okay cutting out a "K" logo sort of thing and broke a bunch of blades getting it done. They had us start with Rio Grande 3/0 blades. I do find they last a lot longer if I relax my grip a bit, let the blade do the work, always keep the blade moving when twisting through curves and corners, and take full strokes so you use the whole blade evenly.

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Jonathan Kendall, Siloam Springs AR

Wes, yes wax can help but errors in technique are usually what breaks blades. I gather that you are breaking the majority of your blades on turns? You must keep the saw as perpendicular to your piece as possible. You also must keep the up and down motion going on the turns. If you slow down or stop the cutting motion, you will usually break a blade. I find that #2 blades are small enough for most work but not so small that they break when you look at them.

I got Larry Robinson's dvd's and they really helped with technique. I'm still no pro, but I seem to be breaking fewer and fewer blades. I would also take John up on his offer to chat with him. It will be invaluable. Good luck!

Wes, try stay-sharp lube from Otto Frei. Also get yourself a gross of blades (144) it may take that many to get the hang of it . Start with the coarsest blade you can that you will be able to cut the detail you want. Your blades will break less often while you refine your cutting chops.
And lastly I recommend Larry Robinsons book and remember that pearl dust is toxic so rig a fan to blow the dust away from you.
http://www.ottofrei.com/store/product.p ... t=0&page=2

René

I've only cut a few dozen fairly simple inlays choosing to buy the more complicated ones. I have never broken a blade (touch wood) but have broken some delicate pearl pieces. Using a birds mouth board and keeping the pearl close to the edge and well supported along with consistent 2" or so strokes works for me. I attended a seminar at Lee Valley where Judy Threet demonstrated her technique. That was a very valuable experience and I certainly try to mimick the way she does things.

I used to break blades frequently and found that improving my technique was the best thing. Lubricants won't make up for bad technique. Like someone has already mentioned, sawing straight up and down is important. Also, being patient and not trying to force the cut. Let the weight of the saw make the cut. I am constantly thinking about relaxing, not just my hand, but my whole arm. Related to this is using the right blade for the job. You don't need to use a super fine blade when your cut is long and straight or gently curving. I have two saws, one loaded with a super fine blade and the other loaded with a courser blade. I still break blades, but these days I find that the blade starts to go dull and that's when I change blades. Don't bother buying blades five or ten at a time from Stew Mac or LMI. Buy them by the gross from a jewler's supply like Contenti.

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Kevin Mason
Mason Guitars and Ukuleles on Facebook
http://masonguitars.net

Most blade breakage is due to out of alignment stokes. The second most common cause is over agressive bites and heat build up. Being truly vertical (e.g. truly perpendicular to the shell) with you alignment greatly reduces both the strain on the blade and the amount of heat build up during use. Also cutting on the down stroke only and not draging the blade into the shell on the up stroke will also greatly reduce the wear and heat build up.

Kevin, would you switch blades if you had a mix of fine details and straight/smooth sections on a single piece, or would you just use the fine blade for the whole thing?

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Jonathan Kendall, Siloam Springs AR

Larry Robinson DVD's and I get my blades from Rio Grande.

Depends on the mix and how hard it is to back out of the cut. Also, I wouldn't bother to change for short section of straight/smooth. I am not saying you shouldn't use a fine blade for straight/smooth cuts. I just saying that it makes sense sometimes to change out.

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Kevin Mason
Mason Guitars and Ukuleles on Facebook
http://masonguitars.net