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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:45 am 
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Walnut
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I save the clear plastic containers that pre-packaged cold cuts come in. These have a snap-on lid that stays on pretty well. I store all manner of small parts and tools that I want to keep together- like nut and saddle files, etc. I label them with a Sharpie, and stack them up. I probably have 20 of them by now. Really cheap organizational tool!


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:11 am 
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I use the plastic coffe cans with snap lids for same purpose . Makes a great place to store materials , I have one that has all my stewmac water based stain bottles in it.

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The Shallower the depth of the stream , The Louder the Babble !
The Taking Of Offense Is the Life Course Of The Stupid One !
Wanna Leave a Better Planet for our Kids? How about Working on BETTER KIDS for our Planet !
Forgiveness is the ability to accept an apology that you will probably NEVER GET
The truth will set you free , But FIRST, it will probably Piss you Off !
Creativity is allowing yourself to make Mistakes, Art is knowing which ones to Keep !
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:18 am 
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windsurfer wrote:
Drywall compound as easy to dye pore filler

Dry Spackle for pore filling when french polishing

-jd


?? for lutherie ?? how does that work ??

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The Shallower the depth of the stream , The Louder the Babble !
The Taking Of Offense Is the Life Course Of The Stupid One !
Wanna Leave a Better Planet for our Kids? How about Working on BETTER KIDS for our Planet !
Forgiveness is the ability to accept an apology that you will probably NEVER GET
The truth will set you free , But FIRST, it will probably Piss you Off !
Creativity is allowing yourself to make Mistakes, Art is knowing which ones to Keep !
The Saddest thing anyone can do , is push a Loyal Person to the point that they Dont Care Anymore
Never met a STRONG person who had an EASY past !
http://wiksnwudwerks.blogspot.com/
http://www.facebook.com/groups/GatewayA ... rAssembly/


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:26 am 
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Pat Foster wrote:

Paper towels, razor blades, glitter.

Pat



Ok Pat, I'll bite..........glitter? :shock:

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:38 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Not Pat but glitter for that Chihuahua testing that Al does.... :D

James drywall compound does indeed work for pore filling. It can be easily dyed too to match the wood or contrast the wood. Robbie O'Brien mentions it in his classes and perhaps on his excellent DVDs. It's pretty cheap too when you consider that you can do 10 guitar for 1/10 of a penny... :lol:

I haven't used it so I don't know if it shrinks over time or any other issues that may be associated with it.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 11:31 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Speaking of waxed paper which I use too in my shop here is an application for waxed paper that I just did and thought it worth a pic:

Attachment:
DSC02700.jpg


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 11:40 am 
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Cocobolo
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Location: Santa Barbara, Ca
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WudWerkr wrote:
windsurfer wrote:
Drywall compound as easy to dye pore filler

Dry Spackle for pore filling when french polishing

-jd


?? for lutherie ?? how does that work ??



Powdered spackle can be used just like you would use pumice or rottenstone. it just takes a little longer to make a good slurry because it cuts slower.

drywall mud can be used when you have big deep pores in dark wood -where you might otherwise get grey spots using pumice (or spackle). compound is very easy to dye into a nice dark color. after getting the color you want, thin it down and rub into the wood. let dry thoughougly and sand level.

-jd


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 11:52 am 
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How does it hold up to the finishes ? How does it hold up under use ?

Is there a thread on this somewhere that i can read up on ? Does anyone else use these methods ?

Sounds interesting , and i have to say "as amature" a bit nuts ! laughing6-hehe

However I have learned one thing comming here , that even though I am accomplished wudwerkr , as a luthier , i know zip. idunno

_________________
The Shallower the depth of the stream , The Louder the Babble !
The Taking Of Offense Is the Life Course Of The Stupid One !
Wanna Leave a Better Planet for our Kids? How about Working on BETTER KIDS for our Planet !
Forgiveness is the ability to accept an apology that you will probably NEVER GET
The truth will set you free , But FIRST, it will probably Piss you Off !
Creativity is allowing yourself to make Mistakes, Art is knowing which ones to Keep !
The Saddest thing anyone can do , is push a Loyal Person to the point that they Dont Care Anymore
Never met a STRONG person who had an EASY past !
http://wiksnwudwerks.blogspot.com/
http://www.facebook.com/groups/GatewayA ... rAssembly/


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 2:32 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sun Oct 11, 2009 4:39 pm
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A water filter to convert tap water to nearly demineralized water for my sharpening stones, hhg, and also for moistening the sides when bending them.
Attachment:
2010_A80_7367.jpg

Plastic foil (0.01mm = 0.0004" thin) for some gluing jobs.
Attachment:
2010_A80_7404.jpg


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 5:24 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Hi Markus - I wanted to ask you if I should be using distilled water with my sharpening stones? You got me thinking from your great post here.

My apologies to the OP for the temp high-jack... :? :D


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 7:03 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Hi Hesh,

Off Topic wrote:
Distilled (or demineralized => cheaper than distilled) water for water stones will never be wrong, but it isn't mandatory either. Where I live, tap water is really "chalky", it contains a lot of dissolved chalk. For example, if I will boil water for 3 minutes in a perfectly clean pot will turn pretty white inside (easy to clean, but just imagine that much dissolved minerals...) When water stones dry the dissolved chalk will cristalize inside the stone and never get out there. One bad day it may crack because there will not be more "spare space" for chalk... For me, pure tap water is an absolute no-go, but distilled or even demineralized water (the stuff you use to fill up your car battery) would easily multiply the costs of my water stones (aprox. 1.- $ per "sharpening day" ), so this filter we use here for our coffee machines etc. is a great money saver for me. But even distilled water would be cheaper than buying every few months a new sharpening stone set :lol: If you get your mineral water only bottled from the store and not like me from the tap I guess you can just use tap water - if it isn't contaminated with bacteria and/or chlorine. :mrgreen:

I hope Mr. Off Topic answered your question ;)


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 8:05 pm 
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Koa
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City: Lawrence
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Zip/Postal Code: 66047
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idunno
mnemotorsports wrote:
Dave Rickard wrote:
I almost hate to let you all know how cheap I am.
I use the bag that my cereal comes in for wax paper. :oops:

laughing6-hehe Thats funny but if your going to tell people your using the bags I would say it is because you want to save the environment. Now I am going to follow your lead and start saving bags, to save the enviroment. of course.


Thats ticket, Yep I'm doing it save the environment. Thanks Matt

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 1:00 pm 
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Cocobolo
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First name: John "jd"
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WudWerkr wrote:
How does it hold up to the finishes ? How does it hold up under use ?



Working with dry spackle powder is just like working with pumice, only slower. Because it slurries up faster and is cheap, I prefer to use pumice. However if something happened to my can of pumice, I would not hesitate to use spackle until the next time i went somewhere where I could buy more pumice (and with no woodworking stores locally, I that might be months).

As for using mud in deep pores, it also holds up fine. we have a table that was finished this way over a dozen years ago that gets keys thrown on it every day and the pore filling is still fine. I would recommend you do a test before committing to using this as the look does not quite have the clarity or chatoyance of other methods. I won't use epoxy due to my history in composite construction, but lately I find myself using an egg white slurry rather than using drywall mud to fill... but I also have not been usng dark deep pored woods. If I was using fumed oak dyed mud might just be my first choice.

-jd


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 3:26 pm 
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Koa
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Christoph wrote:
I just found out that those little household sponges actually have two uses:
1) The soft side is a nice tool to even out alcohol thinned Epoxy pore filler.
2) The rough side is ideal for getting rid of any shiny spots in the dried Z-Poxy. It leaves you with a very smooth silk-mat surface. I would say that the roughness is somewhere between 400 grit sandpaper and steelwool.
And a 10 pack will set you back around $ 1.00 :-)


Great thread.

With all due respect, I'd like to question the use of the rough side of a sponge pad to get rid of the shiny spots in dried Z-poxy. I'm not sure that this is actually doing anything. The shiny spots indicate pores that are not yet filled, i.e. the surface is not yet level. When you remove the shiny spots with something so flexible like the pad (or steel wool) you aren't leveling so what are you doing? I think basically you are leaving pits that have a dull surface.

Regards,
Pat

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Those that make things happen,
those that watch things happen,
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 3:59 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2007 10:43 am
Posts: 152
Location: Germany
State: Hessen
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Pat Hawley wrote:

Great thread.

With all due respect, I'd like to question the use of the rough side of a sponge pad to get rid of the shiny spots in dried Z-poxy. I'm not sure that this is actually doing anything. The shiny spots indicate pores that are not yet filled, i.e. the surface is not yet level. When you remove the shiny spots with something so flexible like the pad (or steel wool) you aren't leveling so what are you doing? I think basically you are leaving pits that have a dull surface.

Regards,
Pat


Great comment. [:Y:]
What I meant to describe were not spots or grooves, but larger areas that are 100% pore filled and still shiny. Of course it is not a grea idea to try to remove substantial material with something as soft as a sponge. That should be done with a sanding block...
So the sponge does work fine to get rid of the shine.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 5:32 pm 
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L. Presnall wrote:
Pat Foster wrote:

Paper towels, razor blades, glitter.

Pat


Ok Pat, I'll bite..........glitter? :shock:


Larry,

It's a new bling option for my French polish finish. :D

No, really, I use it for checking modes and frequencies on tops and backs.

Pat

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 7:18 pm 
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Now, here we have our first Metallic French Polish finish! :D

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:07 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Waddy are you calling Pat a metal flake???? :o :D laughing6-hehe


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:41 am 
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Dave Rickard wrote:
I almost hate to let you all know how cheap I am.
I use the bag that my cereal comes in for wax paper. :oops:


I have a set of nut files made out of lengths of guitar strings superglued onto popsicle sticks. :oops:

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 11:44 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Martin very clever!!! [:Y:]


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 3:25 pm 
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Idea was stolen from tdpri.com. While the strings do give you a groove in a bone nut EXACTLY right to fit your strings, it does take a while to get there. like, maybe 30-40 mins...

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 8:50 pm 
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mmm, fresh batch of bracewood.

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 1:39 am 
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The only thing I see that I use that wasn't already mentioned (exactly) is a metal reusable coffee filter for filtering paint.
Credit to this I believe goes to Mike Doolin in his write up on using KTM-9.

Great thread. Interesting to see what everyone uses.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 2:42 am 
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I don't spray finish any more, but when I did, the cool paint filter was a milk filter from the local feed store. Nothing else filtered as fine or as fast. The milk filters were so fine that I couldn't use them on pearl coats--they removed the pearl.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 6:50 am 
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Not really a household item, but I use my leather shears a lot in the shop, mostly for cutting purflings and veneers. Doesn't always work for along-the-grain cuts in wood veneer - depends on the wood. Anyway, if you've never used leather shears, get yourself a pair. They cut cleanly and easily through just about anything. You'll love 'em.

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