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Mark, That's what I have, the deluxe model. What blade do you use?

Tony if I may make a couple of suggestions. Looking at your photos you really need to use thicker stock to adjust for drift. Thin stock will not give you the correct drift angle. The other problem or potential problem is way too many teeth per inch. May work fine with soft woods but it can't clear the dust fast enough . One more thing. Release that tension when your done sawing.

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Beautiful and unusual tone woods at a reasonable price.
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The Zootman
1109 Military Rd.
Kenmore, NY 14217
(716) 874-1498

For smaller saws:
This thread
http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=25672&p=345923&hilit=Iturra#p345923
mentions a 3/8 carbide band from Iturra.
I don't know if there are other options which will work- Lenox makes the TriMaster blade in 3/8 and 1/2 - probably best to do some more research with the manufacturers.
Cheers
John

Howard, this fence can be used on many different saw makes. I think the main limitation may be saw size as most 14" owners do not seem to report a lot of success. But I could be wrong about that. It has a universal mounting mechanism that makes mating it to the table a breeze. The one thing you might run into is the correct length for the two mounting bolts. I overcame this by going to Lowes. Other than that, it is a universal fence. You will have to modify current fence mounting holes, or possibly drill new ones. I modified mine with a step drill. The fence is very strong and will not deflect once mounted. There are certainly some tuning steps, but one it's dialed in, it's good. You can easily remove the fence part, and there is a quick release for moving the fence back and forth over larger distances.

My blade slot is on the outside edge, no issue what so ever for me. I would think most larger saws are like that. There is NO back rail to get in the way for slots in the other direction.

If you want to talk to the rep I deal with, PM me and I will send you is contact info. Right now, he is selling the thing with the 4" fence, a resaw king blade, and free ship for $295.

Mike

Todd's fence is the standard way to do it. Never use the factory fence for resawing (unless you can completely dial out drift). Fine Woodworking has an article that explains the process just like the way Todd does it.

With the driftmaster, you still must do the line cut to determine the proper angle to set the fence. BTW, they have an 8" optional fence coming out soon!! About $90.

For those asking about carbide blades, the min wheel diameter should be 18"!! Even if you could properly tension that blade on a 14", you will probably break it in quick order. Its a stiffer material. That said, I think some makers produce carbide "tipped" blades. On a steel band, that should work ok on smaller saws.

I think it is important to remember that we are talking about resawing. Factory fences can still be used for much less stressing activities. Just not resawing.

When testing for drift you need to use a thicker piece of wood than what is pictured.
Link

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Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

Tony, one other suggestion. I think it's best to have your featherboards (or hand pressure, if that's what you use) just forward of the blade. This is to keep the cut from being pressed closed behind the blade, which messes with the kerf, makes the blade tend to grab, and affects tracking. That is (I think) why the authorities recommend that the large part of the board be against the fence when resawing. You can push more against the fence without tending to bind the blade in the kerf.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

I cut about 50 to 80 sets during the course of a week using the factory fence that came with my Laguna. It adjusts for drift rather easily.

_________________
Beautiful and unusual tone woods at a reasonable price.
http://www.rctonewoods.com/RCT_Store
The Zootman
1109 Military Rd.
Kenmore, NY 14217
(716) 874-1498

I use the timberwolf 3TPI hook blade.It's a thin blade and is easier on the motor.

If your factory fence has a "resaw bar", I get it. That is a round bar attached to the fence vertically. Other than that, you must have drift completely dialed out to use a factory fence.

Link is correct, you should use a substantialy thick board to get a good read on the drift(1/4"+).

Mike

Drift is a very simple concept when dealing with convex rubber tires (theoretically, a flat tire should not exhibit drift other than that asociated with imperfect geometry). If the blade is not centered on the tire, it will drift... on the outside of the tire, it will drift right of the cut, on the inside of the tire (nearest you) it will drift to the left. It is more important when doing larger width boards. Think about it. And any solution you come up with, given a full understanding of drift, will work.

Mike not to be a PIA but whats the differance between clamping a homemade fence to match the drift angle or loosening two Allen srews to set a factory fence to the drift angle? Both accomplish the same end result.

_________________
Beautiful and unusual tone woods at a reasonable price.
http://www.rctonewoods.com/RCT_Store
The Zootman
1109 Military Rd.
Kenmore, NY 14217
(716) 874-1498

Thanks Tony for the Pic tutorial , I like the set up. I am working on mine now I will post when I get done

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Creativity is allowing yourself to make Mistakes, Art is knowing which ones to Keep !
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Never met a STRONG person who had an EASY past !
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What I meant was that it can be adjusted for drift rather than adjusts for drift. Sorry for the confusion.

_________________
Beautiful and unusual tone woods at a reasonable price.
http://www.rctonewoods.com/RCT_Store
The Zootman
1109 Military Rd.
Kenmore, NY 14217
(716) 874-1498

Thanks Todd.

_________________
Beautiful and unusual tone woods at a reasonable price.
http://www.rctonewoods.com/RCT_Store
The Zootman
1109 Military Rd.
Kenmore, NY 14217
(716) 874-1498

No disagreement and not to confuse or water down the point but possibly to augment it one point I might add is it doesn't matter if your fence is a 90° to the table. Make it parallel to the blade (which is easier ) and make sure you register off of the fence and just use the table as support. It is nice to have everything square and true especially with bigger heavier stock as what I am saying is really for lighter smaller resawing but I often do as I stated above.
Even though gravity is against you the fence ( if you have made it taller as has been suggested ) is your largest reference surface when doing tall stock.
This is probably good advice for general resawing as well, that is to rely on the fence not the table for your registration. The table supports the work but the fence dictates the thickness and evenness of the cut. This is of course when resawing tall stock that is taller than thick.
Link

_________________
Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

Man, I forgot about that! Link is SO right here. I do check my fence against the blade for squareness. Getting the blade perpendicular to the table is OK for freehand stuff, but not resawing with a fence.

Bob, sorry. I did not realize from your first post that you could adjust your fence for drift. I looked at the one that came with my saw, and there was no way to do it. Others I have looked at were similar. Just locked square to the table.

Here is a fellow that uses a very well made (shop made) setup. He also uses the sacrificial board to keep the board properly stressed. It's really not sacrificial in that you should get many uses out of it. He also uses the "outside" cut, which is prefered for thin resawing.

http://www.borsonresaw.com/

Mike

I think there is more to blade lead with a steel blade than where the blade rides on the crown of the wheels. My sense of it has been that the set of the teeth is not perfectly symmetrical, or that even if it is, the blade gets hotter on the side toward the wheels due to compression, so the teeth on that side don't cut the same. Others opinions welcome here, please.

Todd, when it's over, it's over. I am sure of that.

_________________
Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

OK OK OK YOU GUYS ARE RIGHT ........ AGAIN ....

Sheesh , its getting annoying that I ALWAYS get good advice here !

I went and Tightened up My blade till I think I pulled a nut twisting on the knob , I checked my cheap 2x 4 fence and it was 3 Deg out of square soooooooooooo I tilted my table to get it square . I cut 1 piece and tapped the back side of my 2 x 4 adjusting it a couple thou for drift , and I cut red oak like I knew what I was doing !! Once again I bow to the wisdom of the forum .

_________________
The Shallower the depth of the stream , The Louder the Babble !
The Taking Of Offense Is the Life Course Of The Stupid One !
Wanna Leave a Better Planet for our Kids? How about Working on BETTER KIDS for our Planet !
Forgiveness is the ability to accept an apology that you will probably NEVER GET
The truth will set you free , But FIRST, it will probably Piss you Off !
Creativity is allowing yourself to make Mistakes, Art is knowing which ones to Keep !
The Saddest thing anyone can do , is push a Loyal Person to the point that they Dont Care Anymore
Never met a STRONG person who had an EASY past !
http://wiksnwudwerks.blogspot.com/
http://www.facebook.com/groups/GatewayA ... rAssembly/

Don't forget about variable pitch blades if you can find them. This helps reduce blade resonance and theoretically provides a cleaner cut. 3 TPI is all you want (I believe). Some table saw blades have those laser cut channels in them for the same purpose.

My Resaw King blades (Laguna) create incredibly smooth cuts.

Mike

What Howard just said.
Link

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Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

Ok, Here you go Todd...

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**************
Tony Flippo

No end to humor around here!

I use a Laguna 18" bandsaw with 3/4" wood slicer and a lot of tension. I have the roller guides set fairly tight, top and bottom, and I use the optional cast iron fence. I rarely use a fingerboard, though I've made one. With the 3/4" blade or larger, I don't adjust for drift. I just make sure the blade is 90 degrees to the table and that I don't rush the feed.

Chris, where do you get the Wood Master CT blades? I have not tried them and if they are better than the wood slicer blades, I want to try them. My only issue with the wood slicers are they dull too quickly.

Danny R. Little

I posted the following some weeks ago here:
(3 mm = 1/8" - that thin doesn't make much sense though)

Now I also used a 5/8" Blade, its no big difference. But tooth spacing is.

When the blade gets dull and duller the cut will be a bit "barrel-shaped" but the board will never taper towards the end. (Actually, the veneer cut in the picture above is a little bit tapered towards the edge - that is because it was the first veneer I but form the chainsaw-rough 1/8 trunk). Anyway, observing this I will know that it's time to change or sharpen the blade...

When resawing boards I will spot-glue the board (with a sheet of paper between) to the wooden fence which is part of the carrirer running on the "rail" (in the case of my saw the "rail" is the real fence).