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I'm taking a French Polish workshop in the near future, and if i get the hang of it, I was going to French Polish my next guitar.

Just wondering if those of you who use French Polish use it on necks and how it stands up?

N

FP necks are fine providing you have a low PH skin/sweat level. Shellac is some what susceptible to the ph level becoming soft and somewhat gummy. While odiously I promote French polishing as a finish method I seldom use it on my necks. Historically I have used Tru-oil for my necks. In the past year I have changed to medium viscosity CA for my neck finishes.

I am using Behlen's Rockhard now for entire guitars. That's different than Tru-oil, correct?

Can you explain a bit about Tru-Oil? Brand you might recommend? Application etc?

Don't think I'd pair Behlen's with French Polish because Behlen's is quite yellow and probably wouldn't be a great colour match.

Neil

Now you have me confused. as to what you are asking. Your original question was on FP necks. I.E. shellac is the common media for FP process. Rockhard can be padded on but does not work well as a French polish process media. There are several good tru-oils out there It is a drying oil. It is applied typically by padding 6-10 sessions on sanded and rubbed out to desired sheen. Typically it colors the wood about the same a blond shellac.

Same experience as Michael. After finding the surface of 3 FP necks deteriorate, I removed the shellac and padded on about 5-10 coats of Danish Oil. Once it cures totally (about a month) it feels dry slick and fast. This is now my favorite neck finish.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Some players sweat does damage shellac. I've seen damage on a small percentage of instruments on the back where it contacts the player's chest (bass side upper bout), and on the side where the players arm rests. I've never encountered sweat damage on a neck. I French polish the entire instrument, and use pure shellac with no other resins.

I don't remember seeing anyone discuss this before. Care to share a bit more on your process and results?

It is a real simple process once you get acustom to it. I wipe the CA on with my finger (nitril golves a must) allow a coat to cure over night. level the high spots with 220-320 repeat 6-8 times. final rub out with 400-800 or higher if you want. buff with med, fine and extra fine menzerna. I buy my CA in 16oz bulk at $32 ber 16oz bottle. It takes about 2-3 oz per neck if you dont waist any. All consumables and CA cost is about $10 per neck. Ca is very durable, buffs to ultra high gloss and the feel is smooth a silk

Take care to wip on even smooth coverage. medium CA will stay workable for about ten min. before it starts to gel. you can sand level with in 2 hours or less but i like to let it set over night. you can do multi coats before leveling but I prefer to level each coat after the second.

Lance has a formula for doing a satin neck finish with bees wax and some other stuff. As I remember, he was really impressed with the application and the feel of the neck. I'm not sure about durability but I know that Lance liked it.

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jw ( o)===:::

Does this do the pore filling, or do you do a separate process for that?

you can use what ever pore fill treatment you like that leaves the wood surface bare or you can work the first coats in as pore treatment