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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:44 pm 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 12:43 pm
Posts: 64
First name: Arnie
State: Oregon
Zip/Postal Code: 97814
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
For CA.....brand? Type?

Yeller.......I use TBII for 99% of my flatwork, and it has never failed me. Should I consider any other brands?

Other glues that folks use? I'm ramping up for Iteration One, and will need all the help I can get. :oops:

Thanks.

You guys(gals?) answered D?#1 just fine (temporarily apply shellac to unfinished top?), so I thought I'd throw an easy pitch this time. :lol:

BTW, is it kosher to admit that I do flatwork? Or have I just committed the OLF unforgivable? ;)


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 12:11 am 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 12:43 pm
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First name: Arnie
State: Oregon
Zip/Postal Code: 97814
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Thanks Todd. Good info.

HHG = Hide glue??? idunno


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 1:04 am 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Sat Dec 12, 2009 3:33 am
Posts: 57
First name: Tim
Last Name: Caccamise
City: Moreno Valley
State: CA
Zip/Postal Code: 92557
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
What Todd said about the tb, I had the tb11 make the glue line on a Sitca Spruce top very pronounced.

Tim


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 2:01 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Nov 03, 2006 6:50 pm
Posts: 2711
Location: Victoria, BC
First name: John
Last Name: Abercrombie
Status: Amateur
EOArnie wrote:
Thanks Todd. Good info.

HHG = Hide glue??? idunno


You'll get used to 'the code' around here pretty fast! [uncle]
Don't be afraid to ask!
HHG= Hot Hide Glue
LMI White is a good reliable all-purpose choice.
Another glue to consider might be Fish Glue, which has a lot of the advantages of hide glue but doesn't need heating.
(It smells, but nothing like fish! Not unpleasant to me.)

Cheers
John


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 2:59 am 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Wed Oct 28, 2009 3:05 am
Posts: 168
First name: Rob
Last Name: Thompson
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
EOArnie wrote:
I use TBII for 99% of my flatwork...BTW, is it kosher to admit that I do flatwork? Or have I just committed the OLF unforgivable? ;)


Flatwork? As in concrete? Not sure what the glue would be for? But if you do work of any kind, I think it's kosher to admit it! :D

Peace,
Sanaka

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 7:05 am 
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Koa
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Location: Grover NC
First name: Woodrow
Last Name: Brackett
City: Grover
State: NC
Zip/Postal Code: 28073
Country: USA
Focus: Build
I use hot hide glue for almost everything. I use West Systems (105/206) epoxy for fingerboards and laminating necks. For some trim I use FastCap, or Titebond CA that I buy locally.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 10:13 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
Old Growth Brazilian

Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:56 am
Posts: 10707
Location: United States
CA I use extra thin and medium thick ( for neck finish and pore filling) StarBond. I buy it in 16oz bottles for $32 per bottle.

PVA I use Titebond Original. (If you using Titebond II the ability to separate the joint for repair at some point is very poor. It is intended to be an outdoor general propose wood glue. Not really recommended for any joint that may need future repair) you should be able to find Titebond original at any hardware store.

For braces seam joints and most critical structural joints I use HHG and or Norlan Fish glue

To attach Fretboard to neck and lamination build ups I use Pace Zpoxy 20min epoxy


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 12:36 pm 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 12:43 pm
Posts: 64
First name: Arnie
State: Oregon
Zip/Postal Code: 97814
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Wow.

All excellent information. It looks like I'll have to pick up a little TB I.

Plus explore the hide glue and fish glue options.

Thanks again.

Arnie


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 2:11 pm 
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Contributing Member
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Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2005 7:32 pm
Posts: 1969
Location: United States
EOArnie wrote:
......It looks like I'll have to pick up a little TB I........

Arnie,
You might want to think about using LMI white glue instead. TB is yellow and it can cause problems with your finishing that is not so bad with LMI white.

Fishglue is great except for the long dry time.
Do not even think about using pre-made hide glue.

_________________
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 9:38 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2005 7:30 am
Posts: 1792
Location: United States
In no particular order:
HHG, Gorilla WOOD glue, TB 1, TB 2, different CA's (thin, med, thick, black), 5mn and 30mn epoxy, Franklin liquid hide glue (not on its own but mixed 1:2 with HHG to increase open time), Weldwood plastic resin glue, Mod Podge (labels).

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Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 9:44 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2005 7:30 am
Posts: 1792
Location: United States
Steve Saville wrote:
TB is yellow and it can cause problems with your finishing that is not so bad with LMI white.

Steve, I've used TB 1 to join countless tops, mine and when working at Pantheon, and the joints were always invisible.
I will agree that HHG is the best for splicing.

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Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/


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