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Got 2 steel strings in the works. First time for a steel string build. Om and a OOO. One with flat peghead and the other slotted. Since I've only had minor installation experience with a classical slot head...I'm a bit uncertain about rear mount steel string tuners. I'm planning on using either grover or Gotoh minis. Install quotes 10mm holes. However, I see there are tools for stepping a tuner hole. Don't tell me I need another tool? I see some tuner bushing only partially extend the entire hole depth. I'm hoping the 10mm hole is the bushing width and that the bushing depth is left short with clearance for varied specified peghead thickness parameters.
Do I need a special reamer tool or bit to step drill these type tuners?

I'm also assuming a single drilled hole for waverly side mounts or open back side mounts are all that's necessary too....with possible minor hole sanding.
Can you press these tuner and bushings in with a regular clamp.....or do you need a special tool for that too?
I'll buy before I do any drilling so I can do a test hole on a blank first to try it out.
Kent

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Wood Creations by Kent A. Bailey
EXCELLENCE IN SCULPTURE, CARVING, LUTHIER, ARCHITECTURAL MILLWORK AND DESIGN

http://www.kabart.com

I have only completed one guitar but what I used was a T Handle Pipe Reamer.
Available at most hardware stores works great! I think I paid around $10.00

To install std type modern tuners, the ones with a threaded bushing and a washer, 10m or 3/8 hole is fine, I then use the reamer to open up the back until they press fit.

For waverlie style rear mount tuners (slab headstock) you dont need a stepped drill/reamer, but its a better wya to install that ype of tuner - drill a 1/4 inch hole first for the tuner post, then from the top use the step reamer to give room for the press fit bushing.

For single or 3 on a plate side mount, in s aslot headstock, 1/4 inch holes are fine - make sure they spaced properly, especialy for 3 on a plate .. of they wont fit. Some tuners, like the vintage style gotohs, need a countersink on the headstock side to fit flush.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

If you're going to continue to build instruments invest in a set of metric brad point bits. They're wonderful and will be used every day. I bought a set of good German bits for something like $13 at a cheap tool outlet. Well worth it!

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The Biggest Little City, Nevada
www.hammondguitars.com
I love building guitars!

I already have all the brad point bits my shop can hold. I use no others in my woodworking.
Kent
I have a couple reamers.
Thanks...kent

_________________
Wood Creations by Kent A. Bailey
EXCELLENCE IN SCULPTURE, CARVING, LUTHIER, ARCHITECTURAL MILLWORK AND DESIGN

http://www.kabart.com

Has anyone ever tried to remove Waverly style bushings from a stepped hole? I am going to refinish a neck and would like to remove the bushings but I can't figure out a way to remove the bushings without scratching them up or marring the inside.

I havent tried it with mine yet Barry .. but the SM bushing tool has a remove option .. the end widens from an allen screw inside it, then reverses out the bushing when squeezing the pliers ...

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

Really!! I will have to check that out. Thanks Tony.

That gives me an idea. I can take a 1/4" diameter aluminum rod, cut a slit in the middle about an inch deep. Insert it into the tuner hole to the bottom of the bushing. Then take a small wedge and tap it in so it spreads out the rod. Then tap the back of the rod to force out the bushing. I think that should work.