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 Post subject: Another finish question
PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 8:06 pm 
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Hi

I'm working on Spalted Maple electric top. I'd tought to apply some epoxy to seal and protect this wood that seems to be really friable... But the problem IS... I want to apply a Tung Oil finish, all the way. But, the oil won't penetrate the top if epoxy is applied before! So... what can I do? Or, what can I use like hardener, keeping in mind i'll put a tung oil finish? Somebody told me about some product you can mix to tung oil to make it more liquid and help it penetrate wood deeper, and then playing like a hardener? Nonody have more information about this?

Thanks!!!

Francis

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 12:54 pm 
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Well you sort of answered your own question. If you want to use a penetrating oil then you can not seal off the wood and expect the oil to penetrate.

Almost any thing I can think of that would harden the spalted Maplewill als prevent the oil from penetrating.

You may want to reconsider your finish media.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 2:31 pm 
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Ok I think I have to forget the tung oil finish... What kind of finish can I apply after Zpoxy, that I could do by my self?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 2:38 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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Shellac FP brushed or sprayed, Tru-oil, waterborne acrylic lacquer, nitro. Plus you can always use Shellac a seal coat and use almost any top coat media you want.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 2:41 pm 
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What would you recommand me for a non-shinny finish?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 2:57 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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Ti-Roux wrote:
What would you recommand me for a non-shinny finish?


Shellac FP or brushed, nitro Raged, brushed or sprayed. then treated to a 0000 steel wool and past wax satin finish treatment.


either would make great finishes.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 3:02 pm 
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Thanks a lot!

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 11:22 pm 
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There's a product made by Minwax called "Wipe-On Poly". It comes in satin or gloss but I think you'll want satin..

You can use that over epoxy and it will look quite a bit like tung oil as long as you dont apply too many coats.

It is a polymerized linseed oil base with polyurathane added. It's quite a good, durable finish.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:31 am 
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runamuck wrote:
There's a product made by Minwax called "Wipe-On Poly". It comes in satin or gloss but I think you'll want satin..

You can use that over epoxy and it will look quite a bit like tung oil as long as you dont apply too many coats.

It is a polymerized linseed oil base with polyurathane added. It's quite a good, durable finish.


Wow, cool! And "wipe-on" means that it's a non-airsprayed finish (and what I want..)?

And considering the fact that my neck will be rock maple, I don't have to put Zpoxy, isn't true? And so, should I put Tung Oil, or use the same finish (wipe-on poly) directly on wood? And also, is Swamp Ash need to be pore filled?

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:50 am 
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..And I just saw that Minwax also sell Polyurethan Satin-finish, brush or spray-can. Could it be right over Z-poxy?

:oops: Sorry, i'm really a newbie on finishes... and THANKS for all your help!

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 11:03 am 
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Ti-Roux wrote:
runamuck wrote:
There's a product made by Minwax called "Wipe-On Poly". It comes in satin or gloss but I think you'll want satin..

You can use that over epoxy and it will look quite a bit like tung oil as long as you dont apply too many coats.

It is a polymerized linseed oil base with polyurathane added. It's quite a good, durable finish.


Wow, cool! And "wipe-on" means that it's a non-airsprayed finish (and what I want..)?

And considering the fact that my neck will be rock maple, I don't have to put Zpoxy, isn't true? And so, should I put Tung Oil, or use the same finish (wipe-on poly) directly on wood? And also, is Swamp Ash need to be pore filled?


Maple is a closed-grain wood and doesn't need filling. Ash is open-grained but it's your choice, of course, whether you want to fill the grain or not.

You could use tung oil or the Minwax on your neck. I'd suggest testing each to see how they feel. I've never used Minwax on an instrument myself, - just on furniture.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 11:04 am 
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Ti-Roux wrote:
..And I just saw that Minwax also sell Polyurethan Satin-finish, brush or spray-can. Could it be right over Z-poxy?

:oops: Sorry, i'm really a newbie on finishes... and THANKS for all your help!


Yeah, you can put that on top of epoxy. But since it seems you don't have much experience with finishes I'd recommend you use the wipe-on stuff. It's completely fool-proof.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 3:55 pm 
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Have you ever tried this over Epoxy? 'cause I talked to a Minwax employee that told me their products "Are not tested over Epoxy" and they told me it's better not to try it "because it's not made for this".

I think they only protect themselves... but anyway, i want to make sure..

Francis

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 4:19 pm 
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Ti-Roux wrote:
Have you ever tried this over Epoxy? 'cause I talked to a Minwax employee that told me their products "Are not tested over Epoxy" and they told me it's better not to try it "because it's not made for this".

I think they only protect themselves... but anyway, i want to make sure..

Francis


Yeah, I have used it over epoxy but not on an instrument - just furniture.

After filling the grain, the wood needs to be sanded back down to the top of the open grain so there is raw wood fibers exposed. I've never had a provblem with it.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 5:25 pm 
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Ok, great! I'll defenitivly go this way! Thanks a lot again!

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