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Has anyone tried these? Not sure but it looks like a press fit with a bushing.If so ,what size hole does a person drill and does it have to be reamed?
James

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

yep .. press fit bushing, same size reamer as the SM waverlie one ...

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

Great tuners. I use them all the time. As Tony says 1/4 in. hole and the same reamer as for Waverlys.

Thanks guys.Do you use that tool Stew Mac sells to press them in after they`re reamed? Or do you just pound them in with a hammer.I noticed LMI sells a bushing tool to push them in also.Also do the bushings come with them or do you have to order them seperate?Sorry if that`s a stupid question.
James

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

Can't speak for anyone else, but I would not recommend pounding the bushings in, as that can lead to a split headstock. I had that happen recently just by pressing them in with pliers I had rigged up for the job. Everything looked great at first, but the next day--crack! From here on I'm planning to ream the holes so the bushings are finger tight and use a drop of glue to help prevent them from working loose.

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George :-)

I have the SM bushing press .. but the first couple sets I used the drill press and a round bar in it .. press slow, worked fine. My one student used the press (i didnt see him do it, he finished up at home) and said it worked great.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

After you ream the hole for the bushing ( I counterbore mine) you can press them in with a screw-washer-bushing-peghead-caul-washer-wingnut set up. Hope that makes sense. They seat and center real nice for less than a buck.

Tim

I use my fret press arbor to push in bushings. I made a small leather paded stud that fits into the hole in the end of the arbor.

I have been using a small adjustable clamp with a leather faced caul on the back of the headstock. It has worked fine, but I am going to make me one of these - http://www.wellsguitars.com/Articles/Bu ... /index.php

Ron

That looks very similar to what I am doing, although my caul for the back side of the peghead is a piece of cork lined redwood and much larger. The first three guitars I made I pressed the bushings in and a couple of times I dimpled the laquer. That was reason enough for me to change. Plus I felt that an extra hand would have been nice since I was referencing off the back of the peghead and trying to balance the neck. Since I started using the simple screw press the bushings go in after the neck is on and the guitar can be in vitually any position. The washer on top of the bushing is close to the same size as the bushing and it's very easy to visually double check that the bushing is going in straight. Bushing drops 1/32 for every turn of the screw (I use a 10-32) and is like a micrometer adjustment when you get close to the peghead, as long as I am not a hurry. I may clean mine up a bit after seeing the link you posted Ron.

Tim

You will also need to make a slight counterbore recess on the back of the headstock to seat the mounting plate. Look closely and you will see a small ring at the base of the tuning shaft. It will keep the mounting plate from seating flush to the headstock if you don't provide the relief. I use piloted counterbores for a smooth cut on all tuner installations.

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Hank Mauel