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PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 11:05 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 16, 2009 2:19 pm
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Location: Sugar Land, TX
First name: Ed
Last Name: Haney
City: Sugar Land (Houston)
State: Texas
Zip/Postal Code: 77479
Country: USA
Focus: Build
I've been looking at bandsaws. Mid to low priced 14" size. Here's my current front runners:

new Delta 28-276 14" 3/4HP open angle frame at Lowes with riser block from Amazon (no fence or miter gage included) $530 (me pickup 1 mile away)

new Grizzly G0555 Ultimate 14" 1 HP open base with fence, miter gage, and riser block $549 delivered

used Jet JWCS 14CS 14" closed base with fence, miter gage, and riser block $500 delivered. This used Jet was used one time to cut the wood for 1 guitar and is 3 years old! Mint condition.

What's the best choice in your experience? Why?

What is the advantage of closed solid base vs the open frame?

Thanks for your input.
Ed


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 11:16 pm 
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Walnut
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First name: JEREMY
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Country: USA
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Out of the three, I would go with the jet. Buying used usually isn't a bad idea when it comes to a bandsaw, I just saw a 24" doall 220v. single phase go for $800. Grizzly can be hit or miss, but having to adjust new equipment to gain accuracy is a drag. If you can, try out different models and see which one you prefer.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 3:20 am 
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I own the 14" Grizzly w/ riser and am very happy with it.. As long as you're realistic about what you can and can't do with a small bandsaw I think you'll be happy with any of them.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 6:47 am 
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Location: Grover NC
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Country: USA
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I've got the Delta from Lowes. I use it for pretty much everything except resawing tops, backs and sides. I don't have the riser block. IMHO 3/4 horsepower isn't enough for stuff that needs a riser. I have access to a huge 3 phase 220 band saw for any re sawing I do.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 7:58 am 
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Location: Saint Petersburg, Florida
First name: Glenn
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Todd Stock wrote:
If you can swing the additional $137, the Extreme Series GO-555X is a much better value than the Ultimate - 1-1/2 hp motor, cast iron wheels (major difference...), resaw fence, closed stand, larger table, etc. At $607 delivered, it's a bargain. Add $70 for the riser block gets you to $677.

Hi Ed,

I just recently went throught this and bought the Grizzly extreme series (was on sale this summer) with Riser as Todd identifies above. It is a little more than the Ultimate, but I think the additions are well worth it. I received mine a few months ago, set it up, and am very pleased with the results.

Glenn


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 3:02 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2008 9:04 pm
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Location: Bossier City Louisiana
First name: René
City: Bossier City
State: Louisiana
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I have the Grizzly GO555X 14" saw. Here's what I don't like:
1. Bearing guides: Very loud, I converted to hardwood blocks.
2. Split table: Have not been able to get one level with the other to date, I just put up with it.
3. Blade tension release lever: Bad location, awkward to use, modified and mounted in front like Delta.
4. Dust control: Bad location, too low on saw, wish it were higher, closer to work. I admit I have a shop vac with dust deputy hook- up so it might be ok with proper 4 " dust control.
Other than all this, I like it just fine, seems to be durable and accurate.

René


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 3:54 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Rene wrote:
I have the Grizzly GO555X 14" saw. Here's what I don't like:
1. Bearing guides: Very loud, I converted to hardwood blocks.
2. Split table: Have not been able to get one level with the other to date, I just put up with it.
3. Blade tension release lever: Bad location, awkward to use, modified and mounted in front like Delta.
4. Dust control: Bad location, too low on saw, wish it were higher, closer to work. I admit I have a shop vac with dust deputy hook- up so it might be ok with proper 4 " dust control.
Other than all this, I like it just fine, seems to be durable and accurate.
René



René-
I have the (lesser) G055 saw, so I was interested in your comments.
I had part of the blade tensioner lever assembly (cast link) break, so had to mod that- replaced with two steel bars and washers-, so I was interested in your modification. How did you modify the tensioner? A picture would be great, if possible.

If you can't get the table level with the tapered pin inserted, I'd contact Grizzly and complain. Having work 'catch' on the slot is a pain. ( I did need to touch up the slot edges with a fine file and emery paper to get rid of a bit of a burr/hard edge there, and the table insert needed a bit of a tuneup as well.)

I'm fairly happy with my Grizzly, too- though I don't challenge it much- no resawing or 'precision' work.
Cheers
John


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 8:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2008 8:53 pm
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First name: Chris
Last Name: Askins
City: Jonesboro
State: AR
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I have the go555 w/riser. I use a cheap carbide resaw blade from Grizzly to resaw my own back and side sets. I have had no problems with mine but, I am a slow hobby builder and don't do just a whole lot of resawing.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 9:01 pm 
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I have the Jet, and I'm fairly happy with it. Of the three choices you list, I would definitely choose that, but, if you can come up with the extra money, I'd take Todd Stock's advice.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 9:37 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2008 9:04 pm
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Location: Bossier City Louisiana
First name: René
City: Bossier City
State: Louisiana
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hi John,
Wish I could put pictures on here but I'm a tech doofus.
Basically I did this:
I flipped the tension release lever where the pivot point originally is at the back is now at the front.
I had to drill and tap an exrta hole or two but it's easy.
I cut off the original bar(don't remember why now) at the base of the pivot point.
I welded a piece of round rod to replace the bar and added a drill press knob to the end.
I heated and bent the rod to clear the light bracket.
I had to raise the light about 6" with a piece of flat bar and some added lamp cord.
I hope this made sense I can probable shoot you a picture in an email if you like.

Rene


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 11:51 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Fri Nov 03, 2006 6:50 pm
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Location: Victoria, BC
First name: John
Last Name: Abercrombie
Status: Amateur
Rene-
No problem about the pictures.
Thanks for the explanation- I've got the idea.
I'm not very careful about remembering to release the tension, so having the handle 'visible' from the working side of the saw might 'jog' my memory. Good idea. (I have a neighbour who is a 'metal' guy, so I take the welding jobs to him- well away from my wood dust!)

Part of my confusion was that what you call 'back and front' , I call 'left and right' on my saw. ;)

Cheers
John


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 7:54 am 
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Location: Sugar Land, TX
First name: Ed
Last Name: Haney
City: Sugar Land (Houston)
State: Texas
Zip/Postal Code: 77479
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Thanks for all the excellent help guys. [:Y:]

A couple of questions:

1. I assume that the solid closed base machine is better due to being heavier thereby reducing/damping vibration allowing for smoother cuts. Is this true? If not, what exactly are the advantages of the more expensive closed base vs open frame machines? idunno

2. Todd's point about cast iron wheels being better than cast aluminum was helpful. Again, why is this so? I assume cast iron has less flex than aluminum allowing for wider heavier blade use. Is this the reason? I know that it would have more momentum (fly wheel effect) and therefore tend to run at a more constant speed and, I assume, would be a slight advantage for better cutting. Is this true? idunno

Any help you can offer to clarify the answers to these questions would be appreciated.

The machine choice is so typical of most things in life - a little more leads to a little more which, yes, leads to a little more. I have been on that slippery slope (sliding) many times.

Thanks,
Ed


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 7:59 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2005 11:44 am
Posts: 2186
Location: Newark, DE
First name: Jim
Last Name: Kirby
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I have a souped up Delta 14" of the type that Todd mentioned, and have also wished on occasion that the steel frame saws had been more well known at the time I made the decision.

But,... I was in the local Woodcraft the other day, talking to the assistant manager. He was the manager of the Woodworkers Warehouse and sold me my Delta, back when those stores were still open. He has followed my various modifications and always asks how the saw is doing. I mentioned these similar thoughts and the fact that the Rikon gets good press here. He said "go look at the trunion on the Rikon's table".

Looks like cardboard. Todd?

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