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slightly different topic than the other wood storage question here. As a newbie just starting to collect hardwood how should it be stored? I live in Michigan so the temperature fluctuates seasonally. I have room to store either inside in my basement or outside in my garage.

Should the wood be stacked directly on top of other wood or some type of separation system used?

Thanks for your suggestions!!

The best storage is to sticker it for good air flow. This is my method

If the wood is green or has a lot of moisture content, move the end stickers out as far as possible towards each end of the board. This can reduce the length of end checks.

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tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com

By the way do the same for your softwoods as well. This will reduce acclimation time a great deal because the air can flow between each board

Thanks guys!

Hi

Are the tonewoods stacked in pairs or individually ?

John

Put stickers between every piece of wood so you get airflow on all sides. Stacking in pairs would violate this practical rule.

what is an ideal temp and humidity for a storeage room. I have my garage in NJ which changes temp frequently and my furnace room which is warm and dry year round. I can also store it elsewhere in the house. I'll ask my wife about using the kitchen

The "ideal" is a constant temp and RH that matches the enviroment you build in. If unable to do that then find a place with as constant temp and RH as possible.

Michael, I agree that building in that kind of environment is a good idea, but I don't know if its ideal, or even preferable, for long term storage. Many builders believe that woods become more stable by being subjected to the different humidities and temperatures of the seasons ('seasoning', I guess). They must however be stored in a your humidity controlled building area for some time prior to being being shaped, to stabilize in that environment.

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

Update

Hi All

Thanks for all the advice, I wet my boards on the cupped side and watched them miraculously curve the other way !

I eventually compromised by wetting a towel on the floor and laying the boards cupped side down, if it cupped the other way I repeated the process. Eventually they got the message.

They are now stored on stickers in a cupboard which is currently 56% RH but I expect that to fall to around 45% RH in a few days.

John

I was answering in regards to the typical armature builder who may have 5-10 sets max of dry wood on hand at any time. If you have money invested in 100s of sets or are resawing and drying your own stash well that is a different scenario but I suspect that you new I was referring to small stash.

Thanks alot michael. I am just starting to look at wood and want to make sure I store it properly once I get it.

Once wood reaches 10% it can be stacked on itself if kept out of a humid enviornment to save space without any problems.

Thanks for all the responses. I only have a few sets (though it seems I am collecting more each week ) Found some poplar in the local Home Depot in 1x1. Gonna stack it tomorrow.

If you are cutting these sets from lumber you find you'll want to seal the ends of them with a wax. If you are purchasing them from a tonewood supplier they should already be sealed from the drying process.

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I am just making sure I have a correct understanding (prob not) RH= relative humidity. What is a good humidity to keep purchased wood at that, understanding that the wood has a 10% moisture content.

Ideally, you want to keep it between 40%-50%.But anywhere away from excessive moisture would be ok but then you would have to aclimate before you start to build.

[/quote]
then you would have to aclimate before you start to build.[/quote]

That makes sense, when I laid hard wood floors in my house I had to do the same thing for 3 days. Thanks alot

then you would have to aclimate before you start to build.[/quote]

That makes sense, when I laid hard wood floors in my house I had to do the same thing for 3 days. Thanks alot[/quote]

Just for future info. If you buy as set of tone wood to use on a project you should allow a minimum of 10 days to acclimate at the vary least. 30 day is really recommended by most of us and I personally like to have sets 6-12 months in my shop before working with them if at all possible