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i have a old straight 4ft8" windowsill thats 22.86 mm
a tenth off an inch thick ...and i was going to
get it bandsawed at the local coffin makers

its teak (i think?) and the sides will be well quartered
and the backs just off quarter ....

its just usable as this board has two screw holes countersunk and theirs just enough room (about 2 mil
to get my sides from one end
and theirs just enough height for the back with the other screw
theirs a thick layer of varnish on it too

the coffin makers shop is well kitted pro setup
so i dont have to worry about toy bandsaw issues
BUT i dont know how knowledgeable is the fella that i know

i just wondered if its possible two get two sets out of it
and what kind or thickness blade is used to get good results
(so i can come up another time when they have a finer blade instaled? )
should i cut the board into 2 sections first .. getting the
off quater side cut first
sorry for the lenghtly read

basically im looking for a link for ....
What to do when youre
going to a fella you know that has a big saw
thanks for the help guys
tomas

I don't know if the coffin maker is used to cutting resinous woods. Oak, mahogany, etc. are not as difficult. I had some resinous woods cut by a shop that was not used to it. The extra gum and resins caused a lot of problems and heat. They ruined a few blades and did not do a very good job. It certainly would not hurt to try, but just don't be too disappointed if there are problems.

Tomas-
First, I'd check if the sawyer is happy about sawing used teak. Teak often has silica inclusions which are very hard on tools.
Once you get the 'OK' from the sawyer, get the kerf width of his sawblade and you will know how thick your boards will be- assuming the cut is straight.

As to whether teak is a good tonewood....

Another possibility is to sell the board to a boatbuilder and buy a b+s set with the proceeds!

Cheers
John

hi guys thanks for the advice
i just thought id try to make sure that it is TEAK?
its just a guess
anyway it seems quite porus
their is signs that it has been through a machine
a dead straight hair high line going through the middle that nearly looks like a glue seam
is their any telltale signs that this piece might have been hard cut
thanks again
tomas

heres the other side not much space for error with those dowels

It's a bit hard for me to tell from pictures.
Newer teak has a very characteristic odour, usually. It is also (usually) a bit 'waxy' feeling - which accounts for the difficulty in gluing it.
If you have any boatbuilders or a good lumberyard nearby, they will be able to confirm the ID.
Good luck- I'm always on the lookout for wood from unlikely places, as well.

John

It looks like mahogany to me.

The first pic seems to look like teak but from the 2nd, seem to be mahogany, yes

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Francis Richer, Montréal
Les Guitares F&M Guitars

the side thats varnished looks brighter than in real life
the plain side looks normal though
i tried sawing into the end piece with a sharp household knife
about 3mm deep and shaved a piece off

seemed to me a bit softer and it didnt smell of anything, it maintained the same colour
and mabye was a tiny we bit waxy compared to mahogany

well.... what i believe to be that redish ribbon striped mahogany that i salvage
from the joiners skip
(smells to me like carrots mixed with some herb) when damp

i was looking on the net and the closest thing i found to it was .... red or spanish oak
this windowsill could be really old as it was in a manor house shed
could an inch thick plank change colour if left that long 100 years or so or oxidise
this deep into the wood?

It would make sense to use teak for a windowsill.

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It's not the miles ahead, it's the stone in your shoe


In Markham,Virginia

Make a neck or two with it!

Peace,
Sanaka

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...imagine there were no hypothetical situations...