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I am considering using a work board mold on my nest build. My question is once a top or back is attached do you flip the body over and glue the other side in the mold or can you glue it outside the mold?

Richard

I use the Fox type adjustable mold for everything. I glue the back first, flush trim, and flip it over and put it back in the mold. I have a bunch of wedge shaped pieces of wood I use between the back and the floor of the mold to stabilize the body in proper position for clamping.
Terry

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

I like that Tarence! Looks like good clean work and a very flexible system to alter the shape.

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Ken

Excellent idea Terrance .. I opted away from the adjustable mold years ago - and one reason was that I hadnt figured out a good way to stabilize the sides without a dish of some sort while putting a top or back on - that idea with wedges is lovely ... thx

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

The open mold works fine for gluing the back as the top sits flat on the floor of the mold. The taper of the back however means you can't sit it flat and still fit properly in the mold when gluing the top. When in the mold properly the head block and sides in the upper part of the guitar are not supported for clamping. I use a bunch of various sized wood wedges that slip between the dowels to support that area for clamping the top. As you get south of the waist they are no longer needed. You can see them in the picture.

Terry

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Yes that's it Filippo. I also use them to support the rimset when I'm sanding the radius into the top. There is a wood block under the headblock as well but you can't see it in the picture. The radius dish goes over the 5/16" rod in the center of the mold. Here are a couple more shots.
Terry

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Me, too.

Started decades ago with the "dedicated" mold. Great to build one size guitar.
Went to the interim step...the slotted work board but still "dedicated" shape. I'm slow but I eventually get the idea!

Finally got rid of the fixed cleats and went to the fully adjustable form...somewhere around 1997. Use the same wedge supports as previously mentioned to support the body during top glue on.

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Hank Mauel

Terry,
what are the nutserts for at the top of the dowels in your mold ? Do you have a picture of them in use ?
I think I have an idea - but I wanted to double chk.

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It's this new idea from recent decades that everyone gets a participation award. - MUX

John,
Before I switched to Go Bars to clamp the top and back I used the inserts to hold short lengths of 1/4-20 threaded rod and used part of a spool clamp with Lee Valley speed nuts to clamp the top and back.
Now I always use the Go Bars.
Terry

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

I've been using the same adjustable mold for 15 years.

I don't use wedges, I made pattern boards out of radius dishes for each of my guitar shapes. I glue the top on first and then put the guitar shaped radius dish in the mold and flip the guitar body over so that it is face down on the radius dish. This provides perfect support for gluing the back.

Also I use my radius dishes as clamping cauls when gluing the top or back. I apply the glue to the kerfed lining, set the top or back in place, lay a towel over it, put the hollow form on top of that, and then apply 4 to 6 cam clamps to the radius dish. It's very fast, so I can get it all clamped up tight before the glue starts to dry out.

Mark