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Went to my luthier supplies and they had loads of broken cedar tops in their scrap pile I picked up loads for next to nothing initially I though non book-matched 3 piece tops but now I'm thinking 2 piece uke or mandolin tops, what's the consensus and how would I need to work them to make suitable? I've so far used willow on a uke and spruce on a guitar so cedar is an unknown

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Formerly JJH

I learn more from my mistakes than my successes

hi john..........i use wr cedar all the time for my mandos.......very warm and sweet sounding.......it also takes a lovely hue when i spray an amber for a suburst finish.....was it dykies you got them from? joe

I use Western Red Cedar regularly on my ukuleles. It makes a terrific top and one of the favourites for people playing them. I've gradually been going lighter on them to find that spot where they really sing. My latest I've taken down to 1.7 mm in the middle and 1.5 mm around the lower bout on a Tenor size. I'd consider this wood to be of average stiffness, and this is the sizing that I wouldn't be keen on going past.

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Allen R. McFarlen
Barron River Guitars & Ukuleles
Facebook
Cairns, Australia

Hi Joe, no the wood came from touchstone they've been good to me there I now get 15% off so can't complain, and thanks Allen I'll make a not of the dimensions I take it standard fan bracing?

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Formerly JJH

I learn more from my mistakes than my successes

Roger Siminoff has been one of my longest standing customers and he, from time to time, has me add a few WRC archtop sets to his orders. So if he sees a market for them then I would think that there are some people using them successfully.

Good luck with the build.....I'm sure it will be wonderful!

Shane

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Canada

Hi John,

I'm very much a fan of the sound of Western red cedar. It's warm and full sounding and seems to require very little playing in to sound great. That said, you'd better trim your nails to nubs before you begin final sanding and finishing - boy that stuff is soft! If you're going to do deflection maps and want advice/numbers, please let me know and I'll be happy to work with you.

I seem to remember the initial top thickness's being around 0.085" or so, but please note that I use a graphite carbon/epoxy composite bridge patch that's ~ 0.02" thick which along with simple 5 fan bracing helps to consolidate the top. And yes, I use a floating (unattached to the sides) back X-brace to make it easier to tune the back to the top.

Here's a pic of one with a touch of sapwood in the center. The paua Abalam seems to set off the warm colors nicely...

aloha,

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David C. Hurd
http://www.ukuleles.com

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