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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 8:38 am 
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Koa
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Hi All,

Up to now I've been using thin plastic rod to make the side dots on my fret boards. Looks fine but I was thinking to use a wood instead (e.g. ebony for a fret board bound in white or holly for a dark fret board). So how does one go about making a very thin wood stick that can be used to make the dots?

Thanks,
Pat

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 9:27 am 
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Use a piece of plate wood, thin the stock like you would a side or back plate. Cut into small squares (1/4 x 1/4 would be fine, smaller is better) CA the square to the flat end of the drill bit you will use to drill the hole (3/32" is what I use). Put that in your drill, turn it on and file/sand the wood down to the drill bit. Dip it in acetone to get it off the bit. Repeat until done.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 9:32 am 
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Pat, I did a short tutorial re making of MOP side dots as Rod describes....may be of interest.
viewtopic.php?f=10117&t=22351

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 9:54 am 
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On my old timey instruments I just chuck a 2" length of tortoise celluloid cut to around 1/8" sq. in a drill and hold a file to it, followed by sandpaper. Easily done with wood too.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 10:24 am 
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I learned Rod's meathod from Chris Paulik, which I use with hard material's like bone and MOP.

Check this out.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 10:32 am 
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I have started using veneer and a three hole paper punch on the fretboard so I suspect that a smaller punch (ask your wife) could work.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 12:59 pm 
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Pat,

Here is a much easier way to do this. I posted this years ago, but nobody seemed to pick up on it. What you need is a J Countersink w/o the drill bit installed. You can cut dots as small as 3/32" in diameter on up in 1/64" increments. Here is a picture.

Image

These are used to countersink holes, but that is not how you are going to use it. You use it without the pilot drill bit and it cuts a perfect dot for you.

Here is a link for them.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=487&familyName=Type+J+Countersinks

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 3:14 pm 
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Here is another way to make dots , I have used thick colored pencil leads. It is a way to add color. I found this trick from a friend when we needed to match a red dot on a 335.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 4:30 pm 
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I'm always impressed by the variety and cleverness that this crowd displays in its approach to doing things. Thanks for all the responses.

Pat

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 4:41 pm 
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1/16" aluminum welding rod makes great side dots. Looks just like silver, but doesn't tarnish. Lacquer sticks to it just fine & it sands flush easily.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 4:44 pm 
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I just widdle a 6 inch piece of what ever wood I want to use and sharpen it in my pencil sharpener. Drill a hole, stick the pointy end in the hole with some glue, cut off and then sand flush after the glue dries. Clinton


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 4:45 pm 
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I use tiny little pieces of ivory or bone, sanded to size in a drill by just spinning the piece, holding sandpaper folded over it, which sands from two sides at once, and keeps it from breaking. Drill hole, cut off.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 5:59 pm 
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There are some pretty clever methods for doing this, but I have to tell you that the J countersink is an inexpensive tool that is perfect for this, at least for wooden dots. I can literally cut a dozen dots in less than a minute this way. They are available in lots of different sizes as well.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 6:02 pm 
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Pieces of large gauge copper wire pressed into slightly smaller holes. trim close then (carefully) mill flat with a file. Use a finer 'grain' file for the last little bit...less likely to mar the neck/fb wood.

-Matthew


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 6:26 pm 
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Steven that is very slick! [clap]
I will be trying that, thanks!

Joe


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 6:40 pm 
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If I remember correctly Robbie O sharpened skinny sticks in a pencil sharpener.It works great,just slice it off so it`s a little flat on the end, enough so it fills the hole.Then just cut it off and sand it flush.I used this method on a Dread, oops that`s a dirty word.
James

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 6:45 pm 
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Steven ,can you actually do that with a piece of bone.I think it would be pretty cool to have unbleached bone dots.just a couple of 3/32 saddle blanks would make a bunch of dots.Maybe bigger for bone fretboard dots?
James

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 6:50 pm 
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Joe,

Go slowish. You can cut yourself on the other bits if the work piece breaks. Maybe I should remove all the bits from the index? Nah, that makes too much sense.
Jim,
I haven't tried the drill index thing with bone, I use the glue a little piece to a brill bit method Rod and Dave mentioned. With Dave's/Rod's method, drill the fretboard first. Then you can use the drill bit as a handle to insert the dot. Once the dot is in the hole, a little tilt of the bit will break the dot loose from the drill bit. Much easier to do it that way.

Steve


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 8:51 pm 
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Brazing rod gives a vintage brass look but eighth inch is an in between size.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 9:07 am 
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Some creative ideas out there.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 9:43 am 
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And let's not forget round toothpicks. They are usually made from birch and the ones I have are .078" (2mm).


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 11:35 am 
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...or use a bass string!

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