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Ordering my OM plans from SM today and and researching some options and have already learned too much on the internet. Recommended tuners for this OM style: Waverly's? I see some have used banjo tuners...???Also, I see Martin Oms had 2 styles a OM 18 and OM 28. Not sure which the SM plans are for. There's definitely a difference in frets and scale lengths between the 2 models.. I assume the 25.4 is the OM28 and what is in the SM plans.
When ordering back/sides and fronts. Will OM/dread be my min size requirements in most cases...I get somewhat confused when I see O, OO and OOO sizes on some sites..... I realize I could spend the X bucks for a jumbo...just for the looks.
Kent Bailey

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Wood Creations by Kent A. Bailey
EXCELLENCE IN SCULPTURE, CARVING, LUTHIER, ARCHITECTURAL MILLWORK AND DESIGN

http://www.kabart.com

Tuners are kinda a personal thing. I'm not sure which OM the Stew Mac plans are for, but Martins OM 18, and OM 28 are the same design with different woods and appointments. I believe most Martin OM,s and 000's are the same , but with different scale lengths and nut widths. It's way to confusing for me to try to understand.

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/

ON all The OLF plans I have left appointments and hardware up to the builder with the exception of the neck mounting hardware. Even then you could use inline inserts instead of the barrel nuts I show if you wished.

My personal preference would be Gotoh Delta 51s with 21:1 ratio but you may feel more than free to use what you wish.

You want top and backs plates to be a min of 7-3/4 x 21 and sides to be a min of 5 x 32 Th leaves just enough room to work around most issues a set would incounter

Not all togather true. there are long scale Oms Short scal OMs long scale 000 and short scale 000s I never can seem to wrap my head around them all. I will say short scale 000 with 12 fret neck is a slightly different shape body and bracing ans sound hole position.

I always thought the OM vs OOO was just scale in the 14 fret versions. Thats what I've been able to deduce from what's out there. Some may just be using it in the wrong way. The OOO 12 fret is more that a slight shape difference to the OM. The OOO is one of the longest bodies, but the same width as the OM. Longer that a Dread (14fret), GA, Larrivee L.

I used to call 14 fretters OM's and 12 fretters 000's, but someone (that I believed) told me I was wrong. Now I just call them whatever jumps in my mind first.

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/

Kent,

As to the difference between the 18 and 28 styles, it's only a difference in the top and back woods. The 18 is mahogany and the 28 is East Indian rosewood. The Martin 28 does have a decorative volute that's a cosmetic leftover from when they actually used a joint at the headstock.

The planetary banjo tuners will give you the true OM look (as long as you lose the pearloid buttons), but the gear ratio I believe is 4:1 vs. the 14:1 in the typical worm drive tuners, such as Sta-Tites and Waverlys. I like the feel of the Waverlys, but I don't use them for my personal guitars because of cost. Customers like them, though.

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

I've examined the published specs of every Martin 000 and OM over several years and the difference between them is quite simple:
OM - 14 fret, 25.4" scale 1-3/4 nut width. OM/000 14 fret style body. I have never found a Martin guitar with these specs that wasn't called an OM. The OM also has a small pickguard.
000 - Every other combination except 14 fret, 25.4 scale, 1-3/4 nut. Large pickguard

For example, I have a 000 16R which is a 14 fret 25.4 scale with a 1-11/16 nut width.

Well, as soon as I open my mouth I have to make a correction. The OM-30DB Pat Donohue model is a 14 fret, 25.4 scale with a 1-13/16 nut width. I can't find any 000's with those specs either so maybe an OM is 14 fret, 25.4 scale with a nut widty of 1-3/4 or greater.

OH heck! The OMJM John Mayer has the following specs 14 fret, 25.4 scale. 1-11/16 nut. I guess that the only difference between an OM and a 000 is the size of the pickguard.

I think what confusses a lot of builders is when to use the body profile with the elongated waist or the std OM-14 profile

While most people make the generalization that the short scale is the 000 and the long scale OM is is more what is inside the guitar that makes the difference. 5/16 for the 000 and 1/4 for the OM . A true 000 can be both scale lengths. OM's are long scale only

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Ok...Lots to digest. Thanks.
My assumption is that I can order any sets listed as OO, OOO, Om, D or J....just no classical or parlor. I already have a Om 25.4 neck...so I'll go by the Payne plans for everything else.
I did see the web info. on the wood type difference between OM18 and OM28. I'm searching for something different right now as a wood. BHSassafras or (I saw somewhere)..a truly outrageous figured monkey pod. Where did I see that.? Oh...well thanks tons to everyone. I'll check out the Gotah Deltas.
Kent Bailey

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Wood Creations by Kent A. Bailey
EXCELLENCE IN SCULPTURE, CARVING, LUTHIER, ARCHITECTURAL MILLWORK AND DESIGN

http://www.kabart.com

If you are building the guitar, and its not to be an exact copy of a given Martin model, what difference does it make what YOU call it ???

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

I don't make an exact copy of anything. That's just the way I am....This will be my first steel string build and I'm a bit confused about it all. It will not have the square top peghead or Martin style bridge. I'm using the Payne drawings as a basis for construction and was looking for basic info. I'll be doing lots of aesthetic changes to make it different from a standard Martin. I just don't have the knowledge or experience to wing a guitar and definitely a complete novice to steel string. Just looking for answers to what might seem like stupid questions. I can guarantee more stupid questions in the near future.
Kent Bailey

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Wood Creations by Kent A. Bailey
EXCELLENCE IN SCULPTURE, CARVING, LUTHIER, ARCHITECTURAL MILLWORK AND DESIGN

http://www.kabart.com

Kent,

With regard to tuners, are you using a slotted headstock or solid? That'll influence your choices. LMI has a good selection of tuners, I think. Like Michael, the Gotoh 510's are my favorite. If you use them, keep in mind that they have slightly longer than normal knobs. For looks, you may want to drill your tuning holes 5/8ths in from the edge of the headstock, rather than 1/2 inch. I'd say there's no need to order Waverly's. Personally, I think they're not worth the price.

With regard to ordering wood, you'll probably want to stick with 'OM' sized sets. You can save the off-cuts from the back for future use - if rosewood or maple, for instance, a bridge patch.

As for scale length, you can build the scale length you'd like. Just align the bridge accordingly (the Stewmac fret scale calculator can help there.) Also, make sure that your x braces intersect with the lower (tail end) corners of your bridge. It's a good idea, as well, to make sure that your bridge patch extends 1/8th of an inch in front of and behind your bridge. As long as you do that, you can tweak the plan and things should work out just fine. Knock on wood!

I hope some of that helps. Don't know if you've check them out, but the archives here are a great source of info.

Cheers,

Flori