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i have a wood combo stuck in my head:
top - adi
back and sides - hon mahogany
fretboard, bridge, and headplate - mad rose
binding - darker curly koa

im considering yellow purfling lines throughout. i dont have the wood in hand yet, but it seems like it would be a cool match. anyone have any pictures of their use of yellow purfling? any wood combo will do, i just want to see it in action. thanks.

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sweat the small stuff.

Hi Heath,
Here's a photo I did for a customer. He's trying to decide on his purfling scheme, and you might get an idea from this mock-up.
The side is Ziricote, binding is African Blackwood.
Purfling is Satinwood/B.Rosewood/Satinwood.
And under finish it's almost as golden as the photo shows.



This might help?

Steve

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

Hi Heath,

I built a quilted mahogany OMC a couple of years ago and used wide camasari purflings, much like satinwood. The yellow/cream works great with the mahogany. My bindings are plastic tortoise so not quite like the koa you are considering. At least you have another picture to look at!

Good luck,

Ken

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http://www.casperguitar.com

Steve, did you make the satinwood purflings yourself? I like them a lot.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

Hey Todd, thanks bro.
Yes indeed, those are home made.
Check out B&B Rare woods.
http://www.wood-veneers.com/index1.htm
Dave just got a nice golden colored shipment of Ceylon Satinwood.
You want that, because that species is closed pore, which means (obviously) that sanding dust won't be clogging up huge pores and making the golden line more like a brown and gold dashed line.

Steve

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

Thanks, Steve. Do you use a veneer saw and a straight edge to cut your purflings, or do you use a pasta machine, or - ?

Another thought - in making these purfs for yourself, did you, by chance, end up with a bunch more than you'll use? If so, would you want to sell me some?

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

hey guys, those are both great looking guitars/wood combos. thanks for sharing.

steve, your style is great and i love looking at just about anything youve done.

while the purfling schemes you guys have shared are definitely on the yellow side, the yellow purfling LMI sells is YELLOW, if you know what i mean. thanks again for sharing!

heres a link:
http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproduc ... g+%26+Trim

anyone else? maybe ill contact LMI.

_________________
sweat the small stuff.

Hi Heath,

Here are a couple with the LMI yellow. I like it a lot. I have liked the rust colored one also. It appears to be a poplar or maple type wood dyed very well. My friend Bob is working on a pressure system to dye the white fiber board but for now I still use the LMI ones where I can.

Here is one. The thick line is Satinwood and all of the thinner ones (top an sides) are the yellow veneer.



And this is the yellow on the inside edge of some pink ivory purfs:

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Burton
http://www.legeytinstruments.com
Brookline, MA.

Todd, as these were mock-ups, long pieces weren't necessary.
The veneer has just arrived, and no full lengths have been made yet. All I did for this little pic was use a straight edge and an exacto knife to cut 1/8" strips which were hastily glued up to the binding.
Probably for the real deal I'll cut off 1" strips, and glue together the S/BRW/S sandwich w/ Titebond #3, then cut into purfling strips with a veneer saw.
When that day comes...and if you're still interested...I'd be happy to part with the left-overs.

Steve

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

burton, thanks bro. that is exactly what i was after. after taking a look at those photos, im afraid the single yellow purfling line i had in mind will get lost amongst the mahogany/koa wood combo. i wanted it to be subtle, but that might be too subtle. i gues ill rethink it a bit. i really appreciate the photos guys.

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sweat the small stuff.

Thanks, Steve. Never mind. I'll call Dave at B&B and get a sheet of that satinwood. Thanks for the lead on that.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

Heath,

I have a madagascar rw OM waiting to be sprayed. It has a single boxwood purfling line with curly koa bindings. The boxwood is definately yellow, but likely not as yellow as LMII's dyed veneer. The yellow purfling line does stands out nicely, though. I didn't include pictures of it as it has no finish yet. If you are interested, I can swab some mineral spirits on it this evening and snap a picture for you.

Ken

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http://www.casperguitar.com

ken, i really appreciate the offer and i would love to see a picture of that guitar!

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sweat the small stuff.

Here you go Heath. A bit more simple than Steve's. But these are single yellow lines against curly Koa. The B&S are mad rose as opposed to mahogany, but should give you a good idea. I included the red spruce top in one of the pictures so you can get a sense as to how 'yellow' the lines are. I swabbed the area with mineral spirits to give you a sense of how it will be under finish. Hard to get colors perfect, especially shooting indoors. However, I color corrected the images a bit to eliminate the hard yellows. Hope these images help.

Ken

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http://www.casperguitar.com

I have used Ceylon Satinwood and it has a very nice, organic yellow glow to it.

ken, first of all, that is going to be a great looking guitar! second of all, thanks for taking time out of your day to take some pictures for me. youre right, the mad rose is darker than mahogany, but it still gives me a great idea of what the boxwood purfling looks like, especially with the adi top and koa bindings.

again, thanks to everyone for sharing! i think ive got a pretty good idea of my options now. still undecided, but youve all helped a great deal.

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sweat the small stuff.

burton, i recall seeing the rust purfling you referred to earlier somewhere. i thought it was LMI. i couldnt find it on their web site just now though. was it LMI?

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sweat the small stuff.

Yes, it is in the colored veneer section, it is the first one listed. It looks more orange-y than deep rust colored but it is not bright bright orange. I used it between cocobolo binding and mahogany sides and it made each seem more colorful without drawing much to itself, I really liked it.

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Burton
http://www.legeytinstruments.com
Brookline, MA.

ah yes, in the colored veneer section and not in the colored purfling section. thanks.

_________________
sweat the small stuff.