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Guess I use Frank's approach. One wrap above the tag end and the rest under.

I loop the on the unwound strings and usually the G, the others I just wrap.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

The concave radius on the peg head tends to insure a good grip with just straight wrap especially with proper number of turns on the wound strings.I did it that way for years but have switched to installing similar to F.Ford. Think Terence may have a more balanced approach.

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

I have been converted to the hook loop. It assured the string won't slip .

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

I've used the Frank Ford method for 7 years and like the consistent results...meaning no string slippage and they stay in tune better once they are stretched out. I showed that method to a few semi-pro players who used to simply wrap strings..some not even paying attention to how they are wrapped. These are guys who change strings as much as 5 times per week! All 3 of them agreed that the strings stay in tune much better with the new method...BUT...it's more difficult to remove strings when they change. On stage, in a pinch, it slows them down...unless they leave a longer clipped end to facilitate removal from the post. For the rest of us, I recommend clipping as close to the peg as possible.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

I built a guitar for a guy that had been a touring Nashville based lead player for a number of years. He told me all the guitar techs on the road used the loop method on all the strings. They stayed in tune right out of the gate.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

I use the Frank Ford method, always have (didn't even know it was his method) and see no reason to change. As Terence said, they stay in tune right off.

Chuck

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I don't know what method it is, but my strings all look like this:

I resisted Frank's method for years because I didn't like the idea of kinking the string. I finally converted a couple of years ago and have had no problems. This method is pretty much required on tuners with larger radius shafts like Waverly's.

Getting them off is a pain though.

One thing I do is to make sure I have enough wraps so that the string ends up completely below the hole. Otherwise, it can rest on an edge and break there.

What a bunch of obsessive weenies we are....

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http://www.chassonguitars.com

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Ditto.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

Ditto.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

Good thread. I use the Taylor method, with a bit less length on the larger wound strings. When I first start winding, I try to get a nice sharp kink where the tensioned side of the string exits the hole. For the high E and G, I give a little extra length so they get wound down below the hole to minimize breakage, though that seems to be less of an issue on Waverlys than Sta-tites.

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

I like the style Martin uses, with the 1st wrap over the free end and I like to add a couple extra turns on the G sting to keep the last wrap below the hole in the post this makes sure the string is not against a sharp edge. I use tunings that drop the G to a F# or F and the strings sometime break when tuning back to G, I feel every bit of stress I can remove from the string is good.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

that's the method I learned from the paper work that came with a Martin I used to own, and that's the method I've used since then...it allows for a minimal amount of winding needed around the post, which means there's less amount of string around the post that can slowly stretch out...I've found it to be the best way of securing strings using standard tuners...I've never tried any of the newer locking tuners, but I bet those allow the same effect of less string wound around the post, which means less stretch, which means better tuning...

That's the method I use as well. Never have had any issue since I've used this method......quick and easy.

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

I use the Taylor method as well

R

Me too.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I use the " martin " method ( didnt know it was called that) on all the strings, maybe a coincidence I learned it from someone that worked at the martin factory awhile ! I also trim them close to the peg. Jody

I use the "taylor" method of string changing. Hadn't really put a whole lot of thought into the process, but heres a link to that method [url]http://www.taylorguitars.com/global/pdfs/Steel_Restring.pdf[url]

I hope that worked as I haven't posted a link yet

Matt

Fixed link.