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I'll make this a secondary question from my last post here concerning saddle height and tone viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=23802



So from what I have heard so far it looks like I need to remove the neck and reset the angle.
This neck is a Martin single bolt on from Guitar makers connection. I glued the fret board extension down with LMI White.

I did not use glue on the cheeks since the guitar was already finished ( not sure if that was the right thing to do, maybe someone can comment on that as well)

I used LMI on the MT joint

My new question is what's the best way to get the neck off? Can I use a house hold iron on the fretboard extension or will the heat from the overhang damage the finish? Will I have to steam the neck off? If so what is the best way to go about this?

As always thanks
Richard

Bill Cumpiano advises a thin bead of glue along the cheeks as a gap-filler. If the body is finished the glue won't adhere, and shouldn't be an issue if the neck is removed later.

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It's not the miles ahead, it's the stone in your shoe


In Markham,Virginia

Wow, that's a surprising statement from Cumpiano! If you get the joint right, there should be no gap.

Have a look at Frank Ford's site at frets.com. He goes into a neck reset for a mortise and tenon, but much of it applies here.

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

I had never heard of anyone doing this until I saw a youtube video of Wayne Henderson gluing a neck on one of his new guitars. Wayne has a great reputation and I'm sure he has a reason for doing it, maybe someone who's familiar with his guitars will chime in. I've never had the pleasure of playing one of Wayne's guitars, but I did enjoy reading Allen St. John's book about Wayne's "Clapton's Guitar".

Here's a link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBQJzThBW9I

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Jimmy Caldwell
http://www.caldwellguitars.com

I've reset a couple Martins with M&T bolted, and glued neck joints. Removing it is just like a dovetail. I've used an iron for the FB tongue, just watch the heat. It's a good idea to use some kind of insulator to protect the top. Remove the 15th fret( assuming it's a 14 fret guitar) and drill a hole into the neck pocket to inject steam. I suppose you could inject steam into the bolt hole. John Hall????????? Anyone????????

Jimmy, I've played a few of Wayne Hendersons guitars, and met him once. He's a super nice guy who builds great guitars. I don't put, and won't put glue on my neck cheeks just because he does, or for any other reason. It works for him, so IMHO that's cool too.

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/

I will be at Jimmie Hall's open house on the 26th and will do a reset there. The Martin M&T is a glued joint. The procedure is to loosen the extension using a heat lamp or heating blanket. Remove the 15th fret and drill a hole 1/3rd the way from the bass edge. Allow the steam to loosen the glue. I assume the bolts is removed at this point. On a martin you pop off the cover and reapply later with double stick tape.
Once the neck is removed it is no uncommon to lay out that bead of glue on the cheek to act as a filler as stated.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it