Official Luthiers Forum!

So im attempting to bind the f-holes on my first archtop build. After a few test runs i was getting pretty frustrated with the tight bend in the eyes. I just got a heat gun, so the actual bending of the plastic binding (BWB) shouldn't be a problem anymore. I was just wondering what some of you guys do to make the cuts where the binding meets the next strip. Do you cut them, then glue in place? cut the one in the middle of the f-hole, then glue and do the one near the eye last? Pretty much whats your procedure for making clean joints and a gapless bound f-hole.
Any of you guys use specialized jigs to cut the binding?
hopefully my crappy paint drawing will help clarify what im talking about.
The benedetto book doesnt go into it as much as i'd like, but maybe its me?!
Thanks in advance,
Austin

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measure twice, cut once.

I use wood binding. I made up some plywood forms. Bend the veneers and glue them up on the waxed forms using Titebond, wrapping with busted rubber bands to clamp to the forms. They should fit pretty well. I glue one on with CA, leaving it long, then mitre one end to fit the next one, and work my way around.

I bind my F-holes in .070" IBI Ivoroid. I use a pot of boiling water on a hotplate to soften the material to pre-form the bends. I think the heat guns get too hot and you risk damaging the binding. One hint, on the long pieces that form the tight bends at the top and bottoms, leave the tag end coming off the tight circular bend LONNNNGGG... Because of the very acute angle of this mitred joint, to get the angle right along the line where the binding lines meet, you need a pretty long tab. This is crucial if you are using a binding with a purfling line (WBW, IBI, etc.) If you are using a solid colored one piece binding strip, you have a little more latitude, but for a good joint, leave it as long as `you can, and then trim to what you need. I trim to form the joint using a very sharp chisel, and taking small bites so as not to distort the binding material as I cut it. I use a domed spruce block under the domed carved top to support the back of the plate and binding as I fit the joint.

Do the long tightly bent strips first, attach with your preferred adhesive, let them sit for 24 hrsto get properly set. Then trim the long extended tab and establish the mitre line exactly bisecting the acute joint angle, once that is done, you can then trim the end at the middle joint and fit the short strips. At least that's how I do it, and yes, binding f-holes is a booger. I can channel and bind two entire bodies in less time than it takes me to bind a pair of F-holes.

Peace-out,

Gordo

I use a heat gun to pre-bend so it fits a stepped mold (ie a mold with a binding channel cut in it). I do the long pcs. first as Gord says, & leave the waist square & the points long. When trimming (you BISECT the angle, not like your photo), I use wine corks under to support things and a small block directly under the miter while paring. When satified, trim the two small pcs so miters match & length is right & glue. You can use binding "soup" (acetone softened binding) to glue the miters & make them invisible.

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Dave
Milton, ON

Yeah, like all those guys said. The only other trick i like is to use a bunch of little wooden wedges in addition to tape to hold things in place, normal triangular ones and a few different conical turned wedges for the eyes. I like hot water better than a heat gun (ever let a piece of ivoroid get just a little too hot?)

They are a booger to do...

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Jordan Aceto
Ithaca, NY

Wine corks for clamping the round ends.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.