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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2009 8:03 am 
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Mahogany
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Can you use LMI white glue to glue wood binding with plastic purfling? ...or wood rosette along with plastic purfling? Is it better to use Weld-On on the plastic AND the wood together?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2009 8:13 am 
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Cocobolo
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Hello Steve,

for glueing plastic binding to wood I use cyano... I don't think white glue will do the thing...

Regards,

Jojo


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2009 8:27 am 
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Mahogany
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Jojo - I don't like using CA around spruce because of staining...


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2009 8:30 am 
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Cocobolo
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Ah OK... good to know... I didn't work with spruce yet... oops_sign


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2009 9:03 am 
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Koa
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I use Weld-on 16 for ABS bindings.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2009 9:27 am 
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Steve Sollod wrote:
Jojo - I don't like using CA around spruce because of staining...


A coat of shellac in the binding or rosette channel will prevent the staining.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2009 9:50 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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The best glue for wood to plastic is duco or weldwood. CA over shellac may work but really isn't the best. Shellac is alcohol based and hygroscopic . That means it can be broken by water and booze. Also you will only have adhesion as good as the shellac. It don't think enough long term study was done on this combination .

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2009 9:33 pm 
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Koa
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If I'm not mistaken, Mario wipes plastic binding with acetone and then uses Titebond. I've been meaning to try it.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 5:32 am 
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Koa
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I've been told that years ago Martin and Gibson just wiped Ivoroid or Tortise binding with acetone and stuck it on. However they done it, it didn't really work well. I've seen alot of those guitars with the binding coming loose.

Added/Edit: Wood and plastic expand and contract at different rated (don't they?) I don't know if any method would keep these different materials glue together 100% of the time for 50+ years. The binding on my 54 year old D18 is in great shape so the binding separation problem might not be as bad as I think.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 5:57 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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They did that with the older celuloid plastic. The acetate needs a bit more. I had tried Marios tite bond method on one guitar. A year later the binding started to come loose . I use duco or weldwood. I am staying with what works for me.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 3:06 pm 
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Cocobolo
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FWIW Huss and Dalton have been using titebond on plastic and wooden bindings since their inception unless they've changed recently. That came straight from Mark. I've used both titebond and CA and hate the duco. Different strokes I guess. Good luck.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 3:32 pm 
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Cocobolo
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How about this - plastic (ivoroid) binding and wooden (herringbone) purfling?

I didn't feel comfortable right upfront doing them at the same time, so what I did is used weld-on to glue the binding on (while keeping the blobs out of the channel) then figured I would use titebond or white glue for the wooden purfling. Would that work, or should I use the weld-on there as well, since the outer edge of the purfling will need to adhere to the inner edge of the binding?

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 10:25 pm 
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Try a product called ROO Glue.

http://www.rooglue.com/

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 6:50 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I really like Weldon 16. It seems to have some sort of "contact cement" property to it. It's more sticky than Duco, which helps while gluing up.


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