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With no bandsaw, and a miter box that doesn't adjust to make a 15* cut, what would all of you out there say would be the best way for a complete novice to make this cut well. I've practiced using a japanese style saw but while my cut is right down the line on the side i'm able to constantly watch, on the back side it gets a little to crooked and starts curving. Maybe I'm just rushing my cut a little to much? Any tips and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Even using a jig and a table saw the joint still isn't perfect and need to be trued. So, cut the joint as best you can, maybe cutting from both sides. Then turn the headstock piece over and place it on top of the neck shaft, such that the two angled faces are continuous, do this with the end just overlapping the edge of your workbench and clamp them down. Using a sharp plane clean up the faces so that they are smooth and continuous.

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

Agree with Colin ,but like to allow a little extra wood to allow for the true up . You can make the headstock and neck the correct dimenions after gluing.

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

I used a jig saw. The cut isn't pretty but I trued it with coarse sandpaper.

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

I use a Japanese saw for cutting headstocks. Like anything else, practice will help you make a straighter cut. Like the others mention, plan on needing to true both sides of the cut.

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53% of all statistics are made up on the spot
http://driftwoodguitars.blogspot.com/

Ok. So the good ol' 'practice makes perfect' idea. Good thing I have a bunch scrap wood.

I use a bandsaw with a jig and it comes out perfect every time, no need to clean anything, with the right blade it is smooth as a baby's bottom.

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Gwaltney Guitars

It's possible--keep the faith! It took me about three necks before I got a cut that didn't take some significant leveling with a block plane afterward. It's helpful to draw a line on the back face of the neck blank for the front edge of the saw to follow as well.

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Evan McCartney

therunt,
I am amazed at how much I've learned about woodworking since starting this obsession just a few years ago.

Take the advice of Colin. But that should go for many of the cuts you make. A good plane (or set of planes) and a solid foundation in how to get it so sharp it splits a gnat's hair from a foot away will serve you well.

Draw lines all the way around your desired head. Then carefully cut near the lines. Then use your plane, scraper, and sanding block to get you where you want to be.

And to address the 'practice makes perfect' post. It doesn't.
Practice makes permanent.
Perfect practice makes perfect.

If you're practicing (anything) get your technique so that whatever you're working on is right. Then do it another twenty or so times until it feels natural (not lucky) every time.

Good luck!

Dave

Thanks for the advise guys, and the encouragement!

The only thing I would add to Dave's post is to go back over your lines with a marking knife and score them. They don't have to be excessively deep, but deeper than surface scratches. You can rub chalk in them if you can't see the lines well afterwards. Scoring the lines helps the saw blade track. It won't guarantee you'll make a perfect cut, but it does help, especially when you start the cut.

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Aoibeann

Try truing up your cut surfaces on a belt sander ...and I don't mean a hand held job.


blessings
the
Padma

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Audiences and dispensations on Thursdays ~ by appointment only.


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I use my table saw and a simple jig. with a good blade you can get a glue-ready surface.





Joe