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Great suggestion, thanks,
Ya know, I did have to spend $9.99 for that yard of linen !!
Cound have bought a sandwich and a Coke !!

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Gregg

Hi guys, I've made lots of progress and solved several problems,
I have one more question.
The Milburn tutorial does not give a expanded explanation of glazing.
Can someone go into detail on glazing ??
How much shellac ?? How many times ???
Also it says to add a drop of oil during glazing, do you have to spirit off after glazing ??

Thanks guys

Gregg

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Gregg

Greg,

Glad to hear things are going well. As for glazing, I seem to remember an explanation in the tutorial...is it really not there? Wouldn't be the first time I made something up...I started with that tutorial too, by the way. Does this help? http://www.milburnguitars.com/fpbannerframes.html I clicked 'glazing.'

As for me, I like a very light cut for glazing. I usually just fill my plastic squeeze bottle about 1/4 to a 1/3 full with my 2lb cut and fill it up the rest of the way with alcohol. It's definitely less than a pound cut, quite pale. From there, glazing is a lot like spiriting: Lengthwise passes. Charge the muneca with a few drops of your cut and a few drops of alcohol. Don't work too dry, don't work too wet. I like to keep in mind Michael's explanation of the process. We're laying down a tiny bit of shellac and melting it into the previous layers.

If I feel the muneca is catching or if I'm not getting a smooth a pass as I like, I'll add a little olive oil (grabbing too much = dreaded blemish). Bob Milburn told me he finds that walnut oil can leave some surface grime if used late in the fp process, so I use walnut oil for the bodying session, olive for the glazing sessions. I press pretty hard and don't mind a little friction. The tutorial claims this helps build a harder finish. Michael, would you say that there's validity to that?

Anyway, best of luck. I find that it's really rewarding to watch that high gloss appear and to see more and more clarity in the surface reflections. Oh, and as for how many times....until you can shave in the reflection. Really though, I think it depends on how high a gloss you want and whether you plan to do any buffing.

As a final step, I rub any rough spots with perfect-it rubbing compound on a rag, then buff (LIGHTLY - I just ghost across the surface) with 3m swirl mark remover. I smear a thin bit of swirl mark remover onto the finish, take a lihgt pass on that spot, then move on to the next. I also touch the buffing wheel and the finish often, checking for heat. I don't want any heat building up! My process is probably the absolute wrong way to do things, but it works for me. It's a bit hair raising, because any buffing of FP brings with it the possibility of ruining the finish and a lot of work. Hope some of that helps.

Good stuff,
Thank You !!

Gregg

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Gregg