Official Luthiers Forum!

I noticed that this meterial comes with some scratches on the back side for some reason. Althought they tell me they shouldn't be seen from the shinny or top side they are if you look hard enough.
For those of you using this material. Do you just sand and polish the back side to clean up the scratches? And do you have any tips on using this material. I have read Frank Fords tutorial on making a pick guard from cellulose.
Anyone know how difficult it would be to make your own cellulose material?

Chris, you can either e-mail John Greven directly, he is a great guy! or you can seek out Chas Freeborn on the forum here as he knows John well and also works in his own plastics I think.

Shane

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Canada

Thanks, Hopefully Chas with chime in and if not I'll PM him. I email John Greven about the Tor-Tise and he replied that he doesn't make it anymore as LMI supplies it but never thought about asking about the process as I hadn't though about making my own at that time.
Here's an interesting artical I just found:
http://www.mnhs.org/preserve/conservati ... lfills.pdf
Seems like it's just made from some type of epoxy and dyes.

I get mine from LMII and it comes with peel-off sticky on the back, do you get some without?
The front side is easy enough to polish, you could work the back down with grits.

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https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100008907949110

Buff scratches on backside with a scotch brite or eq. Don't take to full shine, because you'll want to leave a little "tooth" for the adhesive.

Yes, it's an epoxy process (SB112) and uses pigments like trans-tint. That said, the devil's in the details since the epoxy takes up to 3 hours to cure and the patterns continue to bleed into one another until they gel. Then there's the issue of getting the bubbles out... To make just one it's not going to be worth the trouble. My wife does ours and believe me she had to toss more than a few before she got the technique down....and that SB112 isn't cheap!
-C

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Freeborn Guitars
and home of BeauGuard©

Chas thanks, Have you tried to put the molds in a vacuum chamber? Larry Robinson puts his inlays into vacuum chambers to pull the air out of the CA so it doesn't leave those little white spots which are the air bubbles. I'm thinking that might also help and Im wondering if it would speed up the cure time. I'm pretty sure you would want to vent the vacuum exhaust.

System 3, the same stuff used for pore filling? Interesting!
http://www.systemthree.com/p_sb_112.asp