Official Luthiers Forum!

Thanks to everyone for keeping all this great input rolling in. It's a big help.

BTW, I always put on safety glasses when the CA comes out, for any reason.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

Todd,

I don't know if this was mentioned (didn't read the whole thread), but the solvent sold for CA works a little better than acetone. Also you need to keep using a new section of paper towel. With the Butcher's wax that I mentioned in the other thread, it goes a lot easier and I find I can get away with acetone.

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Randy Muth
RS Muth Guitars Website
RS Muth Guitars Blog
Facebook Fan Page

I am a repair guy. I use the thin stuff wicked along the edge. Clean up is a paper towel. A q-tip with acetone sometimes follows. I use the razor blade method sparingly on really dirty guitars. I avoid it altogether on vintage stuff and on large or fragile inlays. Re-frets: I use a hammer and/or jaws with med CA glue. I sometimes use a Victor brand capo with shrink tubing the jaws as a clamp for loose frets. The glue doesn't really stick to the tubing and it's easily replaced.

Regarding sound improvement and glue: For what it is worth? I fix a ton of cheap guitars because it's good money. On most import guitars (Epiphones, Squires, etc ) the sound is definitely is improved by tacking down all the loose frets with CA glue.

Just thinking ... ? Baking soda and CA in the slots sounds like it might be a nightmare for guys like me pulling the frets and cleaning those slots. I'd rather just buy you a beer to forget about it.

I am going to have to try that Butchers Wax. Where do I get it? Thanks.

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Tom Krebs

Thanks for your input, Mr. Goat. Here's one source for Butcher's wax:

http://www.bwccompany.com/

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

Thanks, Randy -

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

I seem to remember Mario using Franklin's Liquid Hide Glue in the bottle for this application only.

I have been trying different glues over time and have not yet settled on any particular method. I like the idea of a thicker glue in the slot before installing and may look at the medium viscosity CA method and keep the fret clamped for a minute or so.

I also believe that FG would work but imagine it would be necessary to keep it clamped for hours. Does anyone have any FG fretting experience?

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

I'm not planning on clamping at all, just hammering in as usual. I'll ensure I've got well-seated frets, and then just let the glue take its time to set. I don't intend to rely on the glue to hold the fret in at the outset, but, rather, over the long term. On the other hand, if I'm dealing with fret ends that I'm having trouble with, I'll keep using CA for that, because that's a case where I do depend on the glue to hold it down right from the get go, so the quick cure is needed.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

I bind all my boards (with offcuts of the same wood, at a minimum) and use Titebond in the slot before pressing.

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The member formerly known as erikbojerik....

I use LMI white when pressing in the frets, then wick CA from the sides on unbound boards. Need to be careful about using too much CA...it can come out along the fret on top of the board if the slot is flooded. Other than using the CA or other glue to seal the end of the slots on an unbound board, I don't know that it's really needed. I haven't had a problem with the frets seating or staying in, but feel that it provides a little lubrication when pressing the fret in and I guess it doesn't hurt.

I press some frets in & hammer others ;
it depends on the instrument.
All nylon strung guitars are tapped in.

I just did 2 new fret jobs using dyed Titebond III.
using saddle black dye.
Stew Mac used to sell it ,I have no idea if they still offer it.

NO loose frets and NO clean up at all !


Todd the tape I use is made for auto body shops.
If applied right there is no bleeding under it.
I only use this for repairs-just a few frets.

Mike

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Mike Collins

Light Green Scotch 233+ ?

Thanks, Mike. Once again, your input is much appreciated. Like Chris, I sure would like to know exactly what tape that is, if you've got a number or something for it.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

If it's the 233 that would be great because that is what I use for binding tape and also to clamp my top and back plates when gluing them up. We could have a tutorial on the uses of 233+.

I had CA get under 233 while doing binding and it was real hard to get it off. Of course that was on walnut and I didn't try to press the edges down so

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I've heard wicking potential gaps improves sound, because of better contact, or did someone already say that?

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"Preoccupation with an effect gives it power and enhances the error"
from "Your Owner's Manual" by Burt Hotchkiss.

Interesting thread. I fretted my OLF SJ yesterday (press) and decided to wick in CA after reading this thread and the one by Hesh. I used a rag dipped in Acetone and immediately wiped the fret after wicking in the CA. It cleaned up very well. I have a little spot clean up to do, but not too much. I found if I didn't wipe almost immediately, I'd get the CA lines mentioned by others.

I never glued the frets on my other builds as I thought it would just make refretting more difficult later. I guess I'll deal with that when the time comes,

Ken

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http://www.casperguitar.com

Its really no big deal. If you use a soldering iron to heat up the frets as you pull them, and dampen the board with a wet rag so that steam is produced, you wont even notice the CA is in there. The only semi tricky part is cleaning the crud out of the slot, a hooked pick or a dremel with dental burrs work pretty well.

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Jordan Aceto
Ithaca, NY

I have a little slot filed in the tip to help guide the iron and keep it on the fret, I also tin the tip to help transfer the heat to the fret. I don't use water to dampen. Again, Dan Erlewines Fret Basic and Advance Fretting Videos/ DVDs. I can't say enough about them. They are a must view, full of great tips. Get the whole set.

These work well for cleaning out frets slots -

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_su ... l_Set.html

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

I ground hooks into feeler gauges from .019-.030, to not only clean out slots, but open them up incrementally. They still work as feeler gauges, too!

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https://soundcloud.com/jeffreylsuits/he ... -runnin-13

Me too! Not only can you incrementally widen the slot, but if you shape the hook right, you can deepen the slot too.



So, can anyone guess the wood This will be difficult for most hemispherical northerners so I will say that it's yet another acacia, that I have posted a sample of this stuff before, and it is certainly native to Australia which has some of the most spectacular fretboard materials on Earth.

Cheers

Kim