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I just got done setting my neck(maybe) but need to check to see if it is right. With no fretboard attached I have 5/64"off the top at the saddle position. I ramped my top slightly so there's no gap under the fretboard extention. I've read several different ways to measure this so I'm a little confused. Any help would be appreciated.

I use a distance of .120" from the neck plane to the top of the guitar. My fingerboards are .250" thick and my bridges are .340". This gives .030" clearence over the bridge with the FB installed. 5/64" sounds pretty low to me.

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/

I use similar specs. I want to have .500 string height when finished. I target 1/16 to 1/8 at the saddle position . I have a posting on my site in the blog section http://www.bluescreekguitars.com . This gets me the .500 and I have .125 to .150 saddle. I make my own saddles and start at .410 and will make them match the guitar.
Sounds like you are on the money to me.
john hall
blues creek guitars

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Ok. Thats two I'm good one I'm not. Anyone else?

HUH?

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Bill Hodge


One does not simply, own enough guitars!

John, you've got good advise from John Hall and Todd Stock.

Glue on that fret board

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"with no fretboard attached, 5/64" (.078125") above the top of the bridge or top of sound board?

If above top of bridge ant saddle position then you have way too much back neck angle and if to top of soundboard at saddle position then you are close but a tad short on back ange.

.078125" +.25= .328125" How tall is your bridge at saddle position?

IMO you want the plane of a fretted fretboard to be between level with and 1/16 max pround of bridge height so that you saddle will be between 1/8" and 3/16" above the bridge max at set-up

IMO the numbers are right on ... .078 (above the top at the saddle) +.250 FB + .040 frets (that gives about 3/8 bridge thickness, could go a touch less), then about 1/8 saddle - pretty close to having a 1/2 inch for strings above the top. Thats where I aim ...

However .. in measuring a guitar as you have, and seeing about 1/6 or so means that I am on track. I then use what I call a tester bridge, its about .330 tall, and check the lie of the FB once the neck is dry fit and bolted on, and radiused ready to fret. I want the lie of the unfretted FB to be just above this when it is in place at the bridge position, and that means I am right where I want to be once the guitar is all together and setup.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

Another way to get a rough idea as to whether your neck set is close is to bolt the fretted neck onto the guitar, support the peghead, and put 5-6 lbs. of wt. on each shoulder. If a straightedge laid on the frets still clears the front of the bridge you should be OK. After you do this on a bunch of your guitars and compare to the same measurement strung up you'll get an idea how much weight to use. I'm still working this out but with carbon reinforced necks 6 lbs seems pretty good for a 14 fret 25.4 scale and 5 lbs. for a 12 fret short scale
Terry

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

My guitar are braced pretty light and they belly a little. Weight bags won't simulate this. That's why I like a measurement a little bigger than jncllc's. What exact measurement you need will depend on how the entire guitar is built, not just the neck. Once you come up with a measurement that works it should work on all your guitars as long as your builds are consistant.

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/

I agree 100% Woody, I take belly into consideration with the weights. I've learned that if the straight edge clears the bridge by a 32nd or so with the weights it works out pretty well for my stuff. I also do the other measurements but use the weight test as a double check that all is as it should be.
Terry

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

OK John, I re-read it all again and now I know what you were saying. Just needed more caffeine.

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Bill Hodge


One does not simply, own enough guitars!

OK - as a newbie that totally confused me. I'd like to make a joke and ask why I would want to put 5-6 lbs of weight on each of my shoulders, etc - but I'd rather understand.

What are "shoulders"? I'm having a hard time visualizing what you are meaning.

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P A U L B U R N E R
Burner Guitars

Paul, he supports the neck at the head stock then puts weights on the shoulders up by where the neck attaches to the body witch gives the neck a simulation of string tension.

Upper bouts: What you are doing is replicating neck flex due to string tension.

John and all - thanks for all this - I'll try to keep a bookmark on this thread for future reference.

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P A U L B U R N E R
Burner Guitars