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I really like this gauge. It has speed up my set-up time made it more accurate. just a great designed tool IHMO but like I said in Mr. Dickey's topic I think they wrote the instructions backwards

Besides nut ht missing -- what about the string profile....

Like say you get a guy who wants a Blue Grass Dread -- do you set up the saddle taper or radius a little
different than for someone who wants a Fingerstyle OM?

Thanks

John

Hey Michael,

Out on the West Texas plains....... everybody's 100's of miles from you

_________________
Bill Hodge


One does not simply, own enough guitars!

So true

Not really but would if asked after the client convenes me that it was a benefit to them. As standard I set the saddle height as I set the action. I first set the nut slot depth to achieve the clearance height at the first fret + about .010" with a saddle height that I know is slightly tall. Then adjust sting height at the saddle by filing the top of the saddle to achieve 12th fret clearance height + .010". From that point I fine tune both sting height at the saddle and the nut slot depth till I am were I wan to be +.005". I then blend the sting heights heights at the saddle into a continuous curve and re-check the first fret and 12th fret clearances. and make final height adjustments. Then work on intonation at the saddle this gives a consistent feel from string to string.

That's correct Michael.My relief is .004 - .006

3/32 to a 1/16 for (very) low string action (on dreadnoughts mostly), and 5/16 to 3/32 for high action. For classicals, its more like 3/16 to 1/8, and a little lower for Flamencos.

But it really depends on what the customer wants.

_________________
Alain Moisan
Former full time builder of Acoustics, Classicals and Flamencos.
(Now building just for fun!)

Lance can attest to my unusually low setup-- you've played it, right?

I use mediums (13-56's) and my clearances at the 12th fret are 3-3.5 64ths for the high E string tapering up to 5-5.5 64ths low E string. Clearances over the first fret are no more than (high E to low E) 0.009", 0.011", 0.013", 0.015", 0.017" and 0.019". Neck relief is minimal, if any. Doesn't take a whomping attack to produce good tone-- I use a light attack and let the microphone do the work. A good fret job is a *must* with action this low. I actually had to learn to make my own nuts and saddles because of this-- most technicians I've met aren't comfortable (meaning aren't agreeable for fear of having the instrument come back as unsatisfactory, not that they can't do it) going that low.

As for electrics-- if you can't hear string buzz when playing through the amp, string buzz doesn't exist.

John

EDIT: I actually set the saddle height (12th fret action) before I get the nut slots to final depth. I find that even a slight lowering of the saddle with nut slots already cut that low can introduce buzz.

My classical guitars are set 5/32 to 3/32 over the twelfth fret.I measure with a 6in steal rule. I don't measure at the nut I just eyeball it by fretting the third fret such that the string barely touches the first fret. I never felt I could use feeler gauges accurately enough.

3/32 is pretty low action on a classical, on the high E. 5/32 is pretty normal for the low E. The "standard" on most classicals is usually posted as 3mm high E to 4mm low E. This is with strings open, not fretted at the first. I'm not saying that it can't be lower, but it depends on the specific guitar and the player.

_________________
Waddy

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