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Is there a reason that the zero frets have to be at opposite ends and not across from each other? That would allow the scored line to be the same for each scale and it could be on top and bottom of the template eliminating any error due to parallax. I was kind of wondering why you would confuse the scored line with the scale if the zero frets were at opposite ends? But maybe I'm missing something again. I guess if one picked it up and set it without realizing it was flipped around could be a small error. But not as bad as inlaying fret marker dots on the wrong fret.

Chris,

Yeah, we tossed that one around for a while, a settled on this way because of 2 reasons: we thought it would be easier to keep the templates seperated, and because of machining costs. With the templates rotated from each other it should be very obvious which scale you are working with. Additionally, we are having the template scales and centerline etched into the template. If the scales were on opposite sides from each other, the jig would require two setups to properly machine, which possibly unexpectedlyy is a large part of having something machined...

Stephen

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www.ziegenfussguitars.com

By 2 set ups are you meaning that the cnc opperator has to flip the parts over and hit the start button again? I opperated a CNC for a couple of years so I have some idea how that setup stuff goes. But yeah it is a little more labor for someone to do that. I know because I was the guy who did it. But then again it's not like I was standing there watching the CNC cycle through every second. You are always deburring some parts or putting something together being productive while listenung to the CNC running to make sure you don't hear a bit or mill or tap break. So I guess it's a production cost issue mainly. I understand, I hope you don't mind me asking these questions but I kind of always look at designs of things an wonder why and if sometimes as it gives me better insight into how I design or might design or modify my own tools, jigs or fixtures.

For sure Chris,

These questions are good...at the very least to ensure that we covered our bases. It seems dumb, but yeah, just flipping the jig over, reclamping, referencing, etc...adds considerable cost...

Stephen

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www.ziegenfussguitars.com

Hi Lance and Brock and Stephen,

This looks very cool!

Oh, I sure do wish you would ask your CNC guy if it would really cost any more to allow the buyers to pick out two scale lengths that are useful to them. Just like the commercially available templates, many luthiers only buy a template for one of the two scales on that template - the other one may be essentially worthless to that luthier. A good example is that I am ready to buy a 34" bass template (which also becomes a 28.59" baritone template, starting on the 3rd fret ), and I do not want a 30" bass scale. I could also use a 25.5" scale template, but I don't want a 24.625"

If you will make me a single template for 25.5" and 34", I would plunk down $65 today.

Ask your CNC guy if I am being naive, but I would think that after the programming was done for the location holes, changing to a different scale would be a relatively simple matter of replacing the scale coordinates, which could simply be read-in from a spreadsheet.

Note that if you do make a 34" scale template, that my use as a baritone scale template would mean that I would retrofit an additional drill bushing in, for the locating pin near the nut.

Dennis

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Dennis Leahy
Duluth, MN, USA
7th Sense Multimedia

He's not going to do that for free. He has to enter that into the program and then have the CAM program done over and sent down to the CNC and then run a test piece to see if it wrote the program right.

These are all great questions guys, but the simple matter is we need to produce a set amount of these to make it worth while for everyone evolved. The break point is around 50 to 75 jigs. If we cant clear that number, we might have to can the idea and refund those that have ponied up. We can eat the design and prototype costs, but we cant "pre" make a bunch of jigs and not be able to move them.
The scales we picked were based on popularity. Custom scales are certainly possible, but surely not for 65.00

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

How far off the centerline are the registration pins? I'm asking that to determine what kind of spacing would be allowable for graphite reinforcing bars.

Great idea, although I'm not sure about the timing for myself.

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Kent

Facebook Page

My necks are 1/4" truss rod, 3/16" of mahogany then a 1/4" carbon fiber rod, and they will work with that.

Lance and Steve have the prototype, but I suspect my set up is similar to what most folks are using.

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

A weekend report! We had a good weekend, a 1/2 dozen sales, we are inching toward making this happen, but as you can see, we are still quite a few short.
This truly may end up being a one shot deal.

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

Nice jig, guys. I had the idea to use a "dowels in the truss rod slot" for a neck-to-guitar-centerline-finding tool. This is almost that jig. Just a bit short...

Is there any way you could attach a piece to the end of the jig that would have a pointer on the end to help center the neck on the guitar? Maybe a centered hole in the body-side end that would accommodate a 14-inch or so pointer? Then the only trick is coming up with a rod that will stay straight. And maybe taper to a point. Knitting needle-style. Or a miter in the top/bottom to hold a plastic pointer. Oh, I guess I could just tape a plastic pointer to the thing using your centerline, but you couldn't exactly call that a "feature."

I can see using your jig as a reference for gluing the headplate and aligning the tuner-hole template too.

What if your truss rod channel is a bit off center?

Thank Kevin!
Ya know that's a great idea! And one that our good friends at Luthier Suppliers have already addressed! They have a fantastic center line finder! Check them out

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

Very simple and elegant solution gents. Congrats.
2 things come to mind:
The end of fingerboard score line is determined by the pin location on your slotting sled- not a problem as long as you keep the sled and template together as a set. If the slotting sled gets mangled you'll have to take that into consideration when replacing it. (My slotting sled has an adjustable reference pin).
And rather than use the depth stop on your drill press, consider using a stop collar on the drill bit itself. That way the thickness of the neck blank, fingerboard blank and height of your drill press table become irrelevant. Get dedicated drill bits with their stop collars in place and pop it in the drill press when you're doing fingerboards.
-C

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Freeborn Guitars
and home of BeauGuard©

Thanks Charles!
Yes a stop collar was actually Brock and Steve's first thought, but being the vid was done in my shop, there was no one to be found
You are correct though, that is a better way!

Thanks!

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

Okay now you guys are a bit more advanced with your tooling than I am. I still use the tediously slow hand cutting method after measuring it out onto a taped board, using numbers from the Cumpiano book. I wonder how you set an even depth for cutting slots before radiusing. Wouldn't you have an undesirable hollow area under fretwire tangs if you slotted before radiusing? Or is that not important? I was sawing slots after radiusing, and making sure I didn't go either too deep or shallow. But then again I used a pre-radiused piece from LMI anyway. Next time I want to take a shot at making a jig to turn an unmilled piece of ebony into a fretboard. Definitely have some work to do on that. Thanks for that excellent video by the way.

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"Preoccupation with an effect gives it power and enhances the error"
from "Your Owner's Manual" by Burt Hotchkiss.

I just spotted this great idea/offer. What a fantastic idea - it'll save all kinds of worry - well done guys!!
My order is in.

Cheers,
Dave F.

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Cambrian Guitars

"There goes Mister Tic-Tac out the back with some bric-brac from the knick-knack rack"

I'm in, Great idea. I can also use the locating dowels on my radius jig.

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/

This wouldn't work for my neck construction methods, but I do have a couple of points.

First, I can't see from the video how the part about "mark the center of the fretboard using a straightedge and the centerline of the jig" is supposed to work, when the jig is still stuck to the board.

Second, and much more important: Your slotting sled is unsafe. It has no blade guard, and one can be very easily incorporated into a slotting sled. Lots of us cross cut without a blade guard (which is sacrificing some safety for convenience), but what is particularly dangerous about doing this when slotting is that you are repeatedly picking up the workpiece and moving it sideways, where a mistaken movement of your hands can put them into the blade. My sled is basically built to the drawing that LMI was furnishing with the power slotting system several years ago. The sled has a table that extends over the blade, with a slot in the table. When the sled is pulled back from the blade, as it is in between cuts, the blade is under a plexiglass guard.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

Lance, Brock and Stephen, I just ordered mine. How many sales did you make so far? Are they enough to get this done profitably? I hope so.

Thanks again,

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Steve Walden
Aspiring Builder,
Bartlesville, OK

Ok folks, we have cleared the amount of jigs needed to pull this thing together and get them made!

We are going to extend the cut off date until this Friday April 10th for any last minute folks that want to get in. This will also give me the weekend to pull the order together.

Also, Brock, Stephen and I have been working out a companion jig to go with the fretboard slotting jig. It will be a fretboard tapering template that will allow you to use the same indexing pin holes as the slotting template. You will be able to take your "Slotted" board, snap it down to the tapered template and go to your router table and using a flush cut bit and bearing, trim your board to size. We will be making several different tapers for the most common sizes.
You will also be able to snap this template into the indexing holes in the fretboard surface of your neck and again head to your router table and trim your neck shaft to perfectly match your fretboard taper.

Once again, Friday is the cut off!

Thanks everyone!

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

Order closed.
Thanks folks!

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com