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Neck blank is ready for shaping I can't really think of a good headstock shape. I like a tapered headstock so that the strings will line up better. I am not sure how I should space the tuner holes... is 1.5" good?

Oh and that's Warmoth neck style page because I was trying to find out a good headstock shape to choose from... I think "Warmoth" shape sounds good. Hopefully I won't get any lawyers at my door!

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

Does it lite your fire? It looks fine to me but it is your guitar.
john hall

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

I like it probably because its like mine or many others.

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A higher purpose for wood.
Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

Hello. I've been lurking for a while and only made one "real" guitar, so please consider that in weighing the value of my response. I like the headstock shape and used something very similar... but when I cut it out I could see a slightly visible line on the headstock sides where the taper cut across the glued on "ears". It looks like yours is drawn out the same way. Perhaps making the top of the headstock a little wider would eliminate this.
Gerry M

Can't avoid that when you have to glue on "ears". I will glue a headplate on top of this anyways. Look at Martin guitars (that also has glued on ears (since they use the 2.5" x 4" blank that makes two necks) you will also see lines like this. Well my third (if there will be one in the near future) will be cut from blanks that are 5.5" wide so I can hopefully make a wide one piece headstock without "ears".

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

Tai Fu I really think this needs to land in the lap of...'if you like it go with it'.

Headstocks are one of those things that's been done before...and before...and before...

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There is no difference between the man that thinks he can....and the man that thinks he cannot.

That style is so similar to so many others that you shouldn't have any issues (besides, you live in Taiwan, the copy cat capital of the world, or is that Thailand?)

If you like it, use it.

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"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

A wise man once said, "There is nothing new under the sun"...unless you're building guitars above the sun I agree with the others...you'll probably not come up with a total original, so if you like it go with it! For what it's worth, I like the shape in your photo!

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http://www.presnallguitars.com

Hi Gerry,
If you want to avoid the glue line on the side of the peghead, taper the center portion before you glue on the "ears". This will keep the glue lines on the top and bottom of the peghead.

You dont need to taper them .. its easier IMO to simply joint the sides of the headstock to something slightly wider than the nut width ... say 2 inches. Then glue on the ears .. no line on the headstock edge.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

Tai Fu, I think your headstock shape is just fine. I like the "S"curve detail at the very head of it. With regard to the spacing of your machines: Do you have your machines purchased and in hand? If so, just space them out (posts up) on a table top until you find a spacing that allows room for the attachment screws, etc., and try to judge whether each tuner button will be comfortable between your fingers. You want just enough space between them to allow you to turn one button without bumping into the next button. This will depend on your fingers. I don't think there is an ironclad rule to follow here, but you could get some useful measurements by looking at any factory guitar. 1.5" ought to be okay if your machines have small buttons. I chose machines with very large buttons for my archtop, so my post spacing is bigger. It's all a matter of what pleases your eye and your sense of touch.
Patrick