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Does anyone have a tool (spreadsheet) that calculates the string spacing at the saddle for a given string spacing at the nut? I want to modify a classical plan that has a 50mm nut down to a 1 7/8" nut. What string spacing should I have at the saddle?

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Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

Well IMO it depends on the taper you want down the fretboard. And the player of the instrument. How wide do you like the string spread as you move up the neck? Lots of spacing or just a little?

What are you planning on changing the nut width to? On my steel strings, with a 1-11/16" nut, I like to make the strings at the bridge 2-1/8". For 1-3/4", I'll make the spacing at the bridge 2-3/16". Others like 1-11/16" - 2-3/16" and 1-3/4" - 2-1/4". So it's a bit subjective.

Now, I don't know what is common for nylon strings, might be different for classical vs flamenco too.

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Rod, I was going to 1 7/8" nut width. I want my nylon string to feel more like my steel so I don't want a big change in string spacing. The taper on my Torres plan goes from 50mm at nut to 57.15mm at the saddle. Maybe I'll leave it at 57.15 (2 1/4") at the saddle.

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Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

Ah, to much converting happening here

So the plan's taper goes from 50mm (1.969") to 57.15mm (2.25") which isn't really a big taper at all (when compared to a steel string).

So if you want to make your nut 1-7/8" (1.875") and you want it to feel more like your steel string, keep the 2-1/4" (2.25") spacing at the bridge. Or you could even go up to 2-5/16" (2.313") but you'll certainly need to layout the fretboard taper on paper again to make sure you get the spacing between the outer strings and the fret board edge uniform along the entire length.

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Rod, thanks. To CG builders talking inches is sacrilege.

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Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

don't know what CG builders are?

I live in Canada, s'pose to be a metric Country. I rarely use metric when measuring small distances and neither did the fab shop I worked at. Most everything was imperial.

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"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

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Rod, CG builders are Classical Guitar builders. I'm a displaced Canuck so I work in both measures.

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Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

, now why didn't I see that? . Must be because I don't build nylon string guitars.

Honestly though, metric is a much easier system and I wish I used it more. Actually, when measuring to set the bridge location, I convert to metric as it's just easier to layout versus 1/64".

Sorry to take your thread off track. Hope you have the answer you're looking for and can move forward. (Not that I think I have all the answers, because I don't)

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"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

Ricardo. Just layout the dimensions that you want. There is so much variety within classical guitars no one will take issue. There is no set dimension, its all a result of form following function.

Using imperial measurement isn't so much sacrilege as pointless when all the literature and builders are using metric. Very confusing, too. Even this thread is dimensionally confusing to me. When fractional inches, decimal inches, and metric, all start being used at the same time my poor head hurts. Without a measuring tool or converting, I can't tell if 50mm is bigger or smaller than 1 7/8", or 1.875".

OK, I just ran a conversion, 50 mm = 1.968" (Google math), so now I know that its bigger.

As you are using the Torres plan, SE114?, you can easily reduce the nut width. Torres often used 49mm (1.929") on his earlier instruments. On my last one I used 48mm, (1.889"). No one has raised an eyebrow at it.

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As Doug said, there is no standard. Do what you want to, and just fix the neck to fit the taper of the strings, leaving what ever clearance you like from the outside strings to the edge of the board. I'd leave a little more clearance than on a steel string, though as nylon is easier to pull off the edge when playing.

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