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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 12:51 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2007 6:21 am
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Location: Canada
I've been using tru-oil to finish a neck. I've got it set aside to cure for a week or two, but I've noticed that on one of the fingerboard edges (ebony), there are a number of sections that just won't build a coat. It seems to disappear off these sections within a few minutes. Other sections are great, and the other side is perfect. I've got about 8 or 9 coats on everything.

I used egg whites as a pore fill, and I assumed it would serve as an adequate seal as well, and it had on every other square inch of this guitar as far as I can tell.

I tried scuffing it with steel wool, wiping it with naptha, applying a thin egg wash, and rebuilding, and there was no difference.

Anyone else ever have this happen, or have an idea why it's happening?

Thanks,

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 1:44 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: The Woodlands, Texas
First name: Barry
Last Name: Daniels
Sounds like a surface tension phenomenon caused by the prescence of something like silicone or wax.

You might try sealing the area with shellac and then going back with the Tru-Oil.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 3:14 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Thanks, Barry.

I thought that might be my best option but I wasn't sure.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 3:55 pm 
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Walnut
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Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2008 10:40 pm
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Location: Vancouver Island
First name: Richard
Last Name: Gagnon
City: Port Alberni
State: BC
Country: Canada
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hi Clint, sorry I can't be of any help as I have no experience with tru-oil. Have you found a canadian source for tru-oil or do you get it from the States? I am from BC and have had no luck in finding a source.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 5:45 pm 
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Cocobolo
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I get mine from the nearby Bass Pro Shop. I'm assuming there are a whole slew of them in BC, as they're a pretty big chain. I love working with the tru-oil, and it's pretty cheap stuff.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 5:59 pm 
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Walnut
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Location: Vancouver Island
First name: Richard
Last Name: Gagnon
City: Port Alberni
State: BC
Country: Canada
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Status: Amateur
Thanks for the response. I'm not familiar with that chain but I'll certainly check it out as I'm partial to an oiled neck.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 6:07 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Location: United Kingdom
Hi clint,
i dont know if this helps but i had problems with tru oil when i finished a mad rose guitar with it.
it was fine with the reddish wood but the black lines would not dry.

i think is to do with some chemcles in the wood that react to the oil and retard drying.

i must say that while it it took a while the oil did dry in the end but it took about 8weeks before i could buff out.

i have had reports from two seperate customers of tru oil not drying on santos rosewood (macherium schleroxion).
apparantly this is the case with many oils and this wood due to a chemicle in the wood.

it does not seem to effect nitro and water based products but oil has hard time drying with santos rosewood or pau ferro (same wood).

i have not heard of this happaning with ebony but it may be the reason.

what type of ebony was it? indian, african,madagascan,aisian,maccasar etc.

did you bind it with another wood?


Joel.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:18 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joel,

I thought too that it may be an oily wood issue, and it may be. The strange thing is that it's picture perfect on the one edge of the non-bound fingerboard.

I'm can't remember what type of ebony it is. I got it from John hall from one of his martin kits. It has brown-y streaks in it that makes it look a little like a rosewood.

If I can't get it to accept the tru-oil, I'll just mask off the neck after buffing and bring both edges to a consistent satin sheen with. I've already rubbed it before with 0000 steel wool and it looked consistent.

Thanks.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:51 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2005 5:10 pm
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Location: Madison, WI
Tru-Oil loves to be applied over shellac. Its best to just seal it first and then TO it. I've always had better results that way.
-j.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 11:00 am 
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Koa
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I have had this problem also with maccassar ebony(and to a lesser extent with some Madrose also). I have switched over to using waterlox in place of tru-oil and the drying issues are less problematic. It doesn't seem as forgiving as tru-oil however. If you do seal with something it is easy for the oils to get mixed in to the shellac if you are wiping it and still block drying. Spraying it or multiple coats works best but can still be finicky. Good luck!

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http://www.legeytinstruments.com
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 11:39 am 
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Cocobolo
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Posts: 195
For Canadian sources, check sporting goods stores. Tru oil is marketed as a gun stock finish.

http://www.wholesalesports.com/onlinest ... NG=tru+oil


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