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I am curious as to what your prefference is and why, as I am getting ready to mount the bridge and string up my first solo build... thanks Jody

Either one is fine, us what you can get a reamer for, 5 deg is easy to get reamers, most hardware stores have a suitable reamer. A morse taper for a 3 deg is more expensive and harder to get. I prefer 3 deg as the hole is larger in the bridge plate and it is easier to get the ball end of the strings through the hole. The big thing is unslotted pins with the string holes slotted, there is less damage to the bridge plate and some say better sound since the string is pulling only on the plate and not trying to bend the pin.

Dave Collins has a great display of bridge plate damage caused by slotted pins and careless string changing. It would be good if someone could post some pictures of the damage, as to me it was an eye opening to see it. I have since converted my guitars to unslotted pins.

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

I would go for the 5-degree pins, as I've had a hard time finding 3-degree unslotted bridge pins in small quantities.

Also, if you buy a 5-degree reamer you can use it for most endpin holes as well.

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Evan McCartney

I hope David Collins weighs in on this, He has a fantastic display in his shop about all types of pics and diameters.

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

It would be great is someone could photograph each example on Dave's display with a good digital camera and post them as a tutorial or something on the OLF, I have told people about the damage that can be done to a bridge plate and they don't seem to get it, pictures would help. I don't know if Dave has a camera, but maybe Hesh could next time he goes to Dave's shop.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

Fred bro I will be very happy to ask David if he can repost or let me take some pictures of his excellent bridge pin presentation. I'll be at David's next week and will get back to you.

This is exactly why I come here.

Thanks

Please Todd,

Refresh my fading memory. How do you calculate?

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"After forty-nine years of violin building, I have decided that the search for a varnish is similar to the fox hunt. The fun is in the hunt."
Jack Batts Maker and Repairer of Fine Violins

thanks to all that took the time to chime in here! jody

I haven't taken the time to measure this myself, but the observation has been made that, with the size of hole you need to put the ball end through, a 5 deg taper pin does not quite fill that hole where it protrudes through at the bridge plate, so there's a little gap around the pin. This, it is said, allows the ball to chew into the edge of the hole a bit more easily, thus shortening the life of the bridge plate. Therefore, it has been asserted, 3 deg pins are better.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

That's my understanding too - the 3 degree pins fill the hole more completely at the bridge plate. 3 degree pins are indeed harder to find so I have been having OLF member Louis make mine for me. His QC is excellent and having them custom made also lets me choose what wood I want to use too. Here is a shot of some 3 degree BRW pins.

I agree that the difference in fit is minor though and 5 degree pins are good enough. What is really, really important here is not to use slotted pins.

3 degree unslotted pins are available from LMI

So they are... are those new? I coulda sworn that I didn't see those just a few weeks ago...

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Evan McCartney

And my experience is that those Gurian 3º pins (which at least used to be what LMI sold) are not quite big enough to get the ball end of the string through the whole when the pin's collar is fitted flush to the bridge.

Recommend 5º Stew Mac.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.