Official Luthiers Forum!

Owned and operated by Lance Kragenbrink
It is currently Sun Jul 27, 2025 6:36 am


All times are UTC - 5 hours


Forum rules


Be nice, no cussin and enjoy!




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 12 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 11:38 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2009 9:09 pm
Posts: 275
Location: Ireland
First name: tomas
Last Name: gilgunn
City: sligo
Country: ireland
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
hi again just wanted to know if anyone made a home made intonatior
where you got the bits from any everyday things you can use for one?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 11:45 pm 
Offline
Mahogany
Mahogany
User avatar

Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2007 4:17 am
Posts: 89
Location: United Kingdom
First name: joe
Last Name: kelly
City: glasgow
Country: uk
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
hi wolfsearcher ,,,,i used a bit of ebony for the body and drilled it for string spacing....i also shaped the ebony to fit the curvature of the bridge i then used cheap allen keys t make the saddles which i held in place by wood screws that had the tip filed flat....
joe


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 12:45 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:55 pm
Posts: 3820
Location: Taiwan
First name: Tai
Last Name: Fu
City: Taipei
Country: Taiwan
Focus: Repair
Status: Semi-pro
It looks as though you could get a brass or aluminum rod of the right size and drill and tap the hole then use a machine screw matching the thread and that would go into a holding fixture... I honestly would not bother with an "intonator" because as soon as you correctly calculate the proper saddle position (you use twice the distance of the 12th fret from the nut then add 1/16" to the treble side, 5/32" to the bass side and draw the angle) it should be pretty darn close, then you can file the saddle to further fine tune your intonation (shouldn't be needed). Then either use an earvana compensating nut, or make your own compensating nut and everything should be spot on.

_________________
Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 1:59 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2005 10:04 am
Posts: 2060
A Peterson V-Sam, dummy saddle beveled to the front, and a bit of simple math. I've never really felt the need for an adjustable intonator - too much hassle without necessity or benefit in my opinion.

_________________
Eschew obfuscation, espouse elucidation.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 2:50 am 
Offline
Mahogany
Mahogany
User avatar

Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2007 4:17 am
Posts: 89
Location: United Kingdom
First name: joe
Last Name: kelly
City: glasgow
Country: uk
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
i totally agree david.......intonaters are way to much hassle for such a small benifit.....


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 3:51 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 2:21 am
Posts: 2924
Location: Changes when ever I move..Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I save those bits of "G" string I trim off when ever I change a set of strings. I cut off about an inch of the wound part of the off cut leaving a 1/2" of unwound string still attached. I then bend the 'unwound' part of the string at right angles a little less than half way up creating small right angle leg about 3/16" long.

Backing off some tension from the string I wish to check and using the wound part of the little "G" string hockey stick I just made as a handle, (the windings offer some grip for the fingers giving better control of the tool) I then slide the small unwound right angle leg in-between the top surface of the saddle, and the string I am intonating.

I bring the string back up to pitch and check the intonation. If it is incorrect, I back off the string tension a little and move the little hockey stick leg either back or forward across the top of the saddle to pin point the intonation position with the string at pitch. Once found, I mark the saddle ready for filing at that position indicated by the leg of the little hockey stick.

Cheap and effective [:Y:]

Cheers

Kim


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 6:01 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Nov 11, 2005 3:32 am
Posts: 2687
Location: Ithaca, New York, United States
What Kim said, exactly, except that I use the other end of an old G string, so that I have not only the windings, but also the ball end, to help hold onto the little tool I've made. Like Kim, I remove the windings from the part that I bend into a little L to go under the string. I use a Peterson VS-II virtual strobe tuner.

_________________
Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 10:38 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 2:41 pm
Posts: 312
I've been using pieces of string, but will now be using the ballend/wound part!

Tried that Stewmac intonator some years ago, sent it back. Nice in theory, but...

_________________
https://soundcloud.com/jeffreylsuits/he ... -runnin-13


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 10:56 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:55 pm
Posts: 3820
Location: Taiwan
First name: Tai
Last Name: Fu
City: Taipei
Country: Taiwan
Focus: Repair
Status: Semi-pro
Like I said you get fairly darn close just calculating it mathematically anyways. I mean if you want you could try the intonator but I mean you find the position (stewmac even offers a fret/bridge position calculator) and use a wider saddle and adjust accordingly. My first guitar I was actually off by quite a bit and most guitarists couldn't tell the difference. I corrected it and calculated correctly and it was spot on in the tuner (maybe off by two ticks).

_________________
Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 4:08 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2009 9:09 pm
Posts: 275
Location: Ireland
First name: tomas
Last Name: gilgunn
City: sligo
Country: ireland
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Thanks so much guys for the exelent advice tomas


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 4:45 pm 
Offline
Old Growth Brazilian
Old Growth Brazilian

Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:56 am
Posts: 10707
Location: United States
I have used the Stewmac intonator. I think it would be good for those that slot the saddle slot after the bridge is installed and then if they use a single straight saddle they only need the outer two drums to define the angle of the saddle. it would also be helpfull to those that use individual saddles segments for each string. However if you slot your bridge prior to installation they are useless

I use a 3/32” wide Martin style saddle and I pre slot my bridges. I shape the saddle with a radius top to first get close to the proper action + the saddle radius height. I hen file out the radius bring me to final saddle and action height. While the saddle has a flat upper surface I use the “B” string method to finesse the proper intonation break point. I say finesse because prior experience has taught me that with a properly precut slot in my bridge and using the Luthiers tools bridge and centerline locator jig adapted to locate my bridge position by means of pins that index the outer pin holes and hold the bridge square to the centerline the locate to “1st” string position of the saddle slot to a pre marked scale position on the long base of the jig. I am able to locate my bridge so that even if I did no intonation adjustment I will bee within 4-6c (less variance than most untrained human ears can hear) of true pitch with the break point at the center of saddle. Now that said I still always need to lengthen the “B” string some and I always go through the intonation process to proof out and finesse.

SO if I had to say what I think is a great home made intonation tool I would say it is the Luthiers tools bridge and centerline jig adapted to index the saddle slot and hold the bridge square to the centerline of the jig. That and a used piece of “B” string and my VSII


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 5:13 pm 
Offline
Old Growth Brazilian
Old Growth Brazilian

Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:56 am
Posts: 10707
Location: United States
wow7-eyes oops_sign Luthiers Suppliers centerline locating fixture !!!!!!!!!! not luthers tools Sorry Tracy :oops:


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 12 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: ChuckB, guitarjtb and 15 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
phpBB customization services by 2by2host.com