Official Luthiers Forum!

What are the best clamps for clamping the kerfed lining to the rim? I use reversed kerfed lining and clothes pins are just not cutting it.

Thanks,
Chuck

The big paper clips made for 1/2 to 1" stacks of paper work well and are cost effective.

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http://www.presnallguitars.com

That is what I used to use before I got John Watkins clamps. They work really well, and are cheap!

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Tracy
http://www.luthiersuppliers.com

Clothes pins with rubber bands wrapped around the buisiness end work for me.

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Jordan Aceto
Ithaca, NY

I like these and while you are at it filling your pockets at work with these don't forget to lift the tape dispenser too from the slipping and deceiving department - it works great for the brown binding tape.....

Thanks for the information, guys.

Chuck

aren't the paper clips denting the kerfs a little in curved areas? I always thought they were a little too stiff, but never actually tried them, so I can't say for sure...
I used clothes pins for mine. Worked well and I didn't have to fear the police and get caught with pocketfulls of paper clips

(but then again, it was regular lining and not reverse....)

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Olivier Gauthier
Montreal, QC

I used those black clips too, but I lined both sides with self-stick cork linings, which keeps them from denting the linings. They are not good though on a tight curve. Something like a clothespin or spring clamp is best then.

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

I like these. They have a swivel tip and I got about 30 for less than $15 way back. I think from Lee Valley.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

To clarify my issue with regular clothes pins a little, they seem to work fine with "regular" lining but with the reversed kerfed linings, they don't seem to clamp tight enough on about the two inches either side of the waist. They clamp ok at the very edge of the rim in that area, but I'm seeing a gap on the underside and I'm having to go back and re-glue that area. On a dreadnaught, they work, but I'm currently working on the OLF MJ (meduim jumbo) design (GREAT set of plans, by the way) and the waist is a pretty tight curve. I'm thinking about just making a set of cauls - one for the inside and one for the outside - and just using them and a quick-grip clamp for that area. I'll add rubber bands to the clothes pins and try that on the next build.

Thanks again to everyone...

Chuck

One thing i forgot, which i think helps to make the clothes pins work better on the reverse kerf stuff, is that i cut a bit off the top of linings, it just seems too tall to me as it comes. With a bandsaw i shorten them by 1/8" or maybe a little more, this makes them seem like the right size to me, and it makes them easier to glue in, especially at the waist.

You gotta have the rubber bands.

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Jordan Aceto
Ithaca, NY

I too use these as well and have done for a long time, always worked perfectly. I use solid laminated linings.

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

Little green rubber tip 1" pony clamps from Home Depot. .30 cents each. Use one size larger or others have around for mid point of side braces.

Olivier my friend the clips that I use shown in the pic don't dent anything. This size clip is a perfect fit for reverse linings and since they are very nearly 100% open the pressure is distributed enough that no denting occurs. They also work well in the waist area on my OMs, dreads, SJs, and L-OOs although they are harder to install and remove in the waist area but still no denting. It could be that these clips are not as stiff as others that folks have tried - don't know.

What I do see, using Titebond for my linings, is some occasional black paint that comes off the clips but this sands right off. I always sand my linings anyway living as close to Lance as I do and admittedly being in competition, and losing..., with Lance for super clean box insides.....

Regarding linings not sitting flat on the sides in all locations I simply make a relief cut with an X-acto knife where and if they don't want to sit flat and the problem is solved. This method is shown by Frank Finachio in his excellent DVD set.

Hesh,, "slipping and decieving dept"
You never run out do you?
Q for U: My Big Mama picked me up 60 of these binder clip things at the $1 store a while back - They are 1 1/4" wide - how big are the ones you use friend - I know Ive asked you this before sometime and somewhere - but forgot what you told me...
Thanks
Charlie

Charlie bro the clips that I use are 5/16" wide measured across the back and are a perfect fit for reverse kerfed linings.

I thought that we might benefit from a closer look that illustrates the point that this size does not dent the guitar. As you can see from the pictures below the clip is wide open so there are no sharp pressure points from the clip onto the wood. Instead the flats of the clip lay pretty flat against the side and linings. FYI the simulated side below is .110 thick, thicker than I would build with and this extra wiggle room is why these work on the waist area too.

They are inexpensive, widely available, and cheap enough that it's easy to pick up 100 or so and never be in need of one when you are gluing on your linings.

The way it works is to not make the cut across the entire lining. If the bottom edge needs to be relieved I just make a partial cut approx. from the center of the lining down and this permits the lining to have some flexibility and conform to the radius of the side. Where the cut was made is glued back together with Titebond.

I rarely have to do this anyway and the reverse kerf linings that I use seem to conform well to the radius of the sides. My RKLs are soaked for 60 seconds or so in very hot water and this makes them more flexible IMHO and I don't see them trying to not lay flat when clamped very often. As always YMMV.

I use the same clamps as Hesh and the relief cuts also!!
We must be related !

Mike

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Mike Collins

First post of newbie builder... so be gentle!

I'm taking a class and the instructor showed me an almost free clamp that works really well. Take 1" PVC pipe and cut off about 3/8" slices on the bandsaw to make PVC rings. Then cut a kerf into them to allow you to bend them open. It takes 2 hands to spread these small pipe ring pieces open, and they put a lot of pressure onto a small area. You can get a lot of these little rings onto a small section of kerfing if you want some extra oomph.

It works best to start out with a couple of clothespins or binder clips to get them in place due to one handed operation. Then put on lots of these little "pipe" clamps for gluing.

I use these - they come in a clear plastic tube from Woodcraft - a dozen for $5. I thing they are an assortment of two sizes, and I use the larger ones where I need a little more pressure. I use LMII's white instrument maker's glue, so heat is not an issue for me.

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---Steve

I use 1" steel spring clamps where the curvature is not to tight and 1/2" steel spring clamps in tight curves